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  • #16
    Ok, I just talked to my Son. Here is where he bought the gun and aluminum rivets:

    http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/to/rivet.html


    Don

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    • #17
      Thanks Don, put that site in my "favorites"for future reference. Still dont quite understand all the weird shapes of the "buckingbars". I guess if there was a how-to video it would be more understandable.
      If it aint steel it aint real

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      • #18
        You really don't need those bars. Dan just laid the backside of his rivets against a flat piece of steel on his welding table. Any hard, flat piece of steel that won't move works great, especially with the aluminum rivets.

        Don

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        • #19
          Thanks again Don. I have a drawer full of steel rivets,I`ll have to try "bangin" on a couple of them to experiment on how hard they are.(just for fun)
          If it aint steel it aint real

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          • #20
            I've heard of guys preheating the backside of steel rivets with a torch to soften them and make them easier to buck, but never tried that myself.

            Don

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            • #21
              rivets

              I use to work at a trailer manufactor and we used to use a larger head pop rivet when we were not able to get behind it to buck , then we would use a drill powered head shaver to make it look just like a buck head rivet, used the same to repair postal jeeps and trailers that were wrecked, DUCKMAN

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              • #22
                What does that head shaver look like and how does it work?

                Don

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by donsrods View Post
                  What does that head shaver look like and how does it work?

                  Don
                  I used to be in the RV repair business. We had a shaver like this for Airstreams. (When blind rivets were the only option).


                  http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/..._p/vts-177.htm
                  A SMALL MIND FITS EASY IN A SWELLED HEAD

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                  • #24
                    I was wanting an industrial look to the ole Jeep Rhino so I took after it with some big ass rivits. I mean what says INDUSTRIAL better than Rivets? I couldnt get to the back side so I drilled a small hole, Dabbed a couple of drops of JB kwik epoxy on the back of each head and drove them in. It kind of gave it a puckerd appearance. I tell everyone that it was stock in 1963 and only a few came from the factory that way as a promotional thing. Most people believe it! Just something different.







                    Last edited by Metal Twister; 06-04-2011, 01:36 PM.
                    SCRAM...

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                    • #25
                      Twister, Nice touch to make an ol` Jeep cool. That thing is exactly the same Jeep I use to plow snow from my driveways. It donated it`s dash cluster,fuel sending unit and fuel filler tube to my 37 build, posted under $3000 club.
                      If it aint steel it aint real

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                      • #26
                        solid rivets and how to shoot n buck

                        Okay guys, first thing is you don't use an air hammer to shoot rivets!!!! The tool is called a rivet gun, looks similar, but has a variable trigger where an air hammer is all on or off!! Second you need to look at a store called "the yardstore.com" they sell aircraft tools, and third, yes its a lost art to do it correctly!!! Having been an aircraft sheetmetal/structure mechanic for 18 years I know a thing or 2 on this subject, so lemme know if you need any further advice or help in the right direction.

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                        • #27
                          http://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&page...vet%20squeezer

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