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  • $20 Steering Column

    $20 Steering Column Instructions
    Originally posted by Choppintops
    No pictures at the moment. Maybe we can get some posted soon!

    Many of you guys have a lot of this laying around in your scrap pile. If you don’t, you can still make this column any length you want and won’t cost you more than $20, including bearings.

    Parts needed for column:
    * ” solid steel bar the length you need the column to be.
    *1.5” tubing 16 gauge the length of your column. Several different sizes of tubing can work, but the 1.5” will be cheapest. We have also used left over 1 5/8” X .120” wall roll cage tubing.
    * Two bearings. Part # HW-13C TIC. Most steel supply places have these in stock for $1-$2 each or so.
    * ” plate to cut out a 3” diameter circle.

    Parts needed for column drop:
    • One connecting rod.
    • A small piece of 2” tube with a .250” wall. Only needs to be as long as the connecting rod is thick.
    • ” flat bar 3” long, ” thick.


    1. ” solid bar stock. Cut the bar the length you need from the universal joint on the steering box to the base of your steering wheel.


    2. You can use universal joints with the “double D” hole so the whole assemble is easily removed and disassemble. A mill works best for this, but not everyone has one, so a grinder works just fine. Mill or grind one end of the shaft with flat sides to match the opening of the universal joint as shown. Take your time and you will end up with a good fit.


    3. Slide the universal over the double d end you just made on the shaft. Center punch the set screw opening. Spot drill a recess so you can tighten the set screw so it wont slip off.


    4. Take your ” plate and cut a 3” diameter circle. Mark out the center of your circle, then drill or cut out a ” hole.


    5. Weld the ” bar stock into the ” hole in your plate at 90 degrees. . Mark and drill your holes for your steering wheel.


    6. Slide or press your bearing on over the shaft in the direction shown. Although this is a tight fit, doesn’t hurt to throw a quick tack weld on to keep it sliding up or down OR buy 2 slip collars that have an allen set screw so that you can disassemble to repair and or modify column. You can do this two different ways you can put the slip collar on the outside of the colum and then if any adjustments need to be made they are easily accessable... OR you could hide them inside of the column either way you do it you might need two slip collars if you prefer to do it the slip collar way instead of the tack weld.

    7. Measure your tube from the top lip of the top bearing to the bottom lip of where you want your bottom bearing to fit. Cut the tube.


    8. Slide the tube over the shaft onto the top bearing. You might need to sand the inside of the tube a little to get it to slide on by hand, but mostly just debur it.


    9. Slide the bottom bearing on. Put a SMALL tack on it to hold everything in place, but do this right before you paint so it can be disassemble if needed during building.


    10. Making the column drop. You can make a billet one out of aluminum, or even buy one. This is just for guys that want it cheap and old school. Most car guys have a connecting rod lying around somewhere. If you don’t, just ask a buddy. 350 Chevy & 302 Ford will work just fine. Cut a slice off your tube the thickness of the connecting rod. Weld into place

    11. Cut the connecting rod to the angle of the dash. Welded on the ” X ” X 3” flat stock. Drilled two holes and bolted it up. Once everything is in place tack weld the column drop onto the column, pull it all back out and weld as you like.


    Under $20, and 60 minutes later, you are ready to paint it.


    Few guys say they can't find these bearings. These are SEALED and you can find them in your hometown.

    They are flanged ones and are 1 3/8 OD and .75 ID. They are for LAWNMOWERS. Here are random part numbers and interchange numbers.

    ARIENS 05416200
    ARIENS 05408900
    ARIENS Most 21" walk behind mowers

    BUNTON PO209
    BUNTON PLO941

    BUNTON 410-350-5 caster wheels

    Case C12110

    CUB CADET 384881-R91
    CUB CADET 384881-R94
    Dixon 8167

    Dixon 9543

    GRAVELY 011193
    GRAVELY 036778
    JOHN DEERE AM35443
    JOHN DEERE AM118315

    JOHN DEERE 100 and LX series, 410-350-5 caster
    MTD 741-0141
    MTD 941-0141
    SNAPPER 1-1807
    SNAPPER 7011807

    TORO 110513
    TORO 25-1210
    Last edited by icebox88; 09-28-2012, 05:43 AM.
    DEEZ NUTZ.......... Ya know.... A lil crazy!!!!!

    RAT RODS - Putting smiles on peoples faces all over the world!

  • #2
    That's a great idea and write up! I've read over it twice now and unless I am missing it I am trying to figure out the splines were the wheel attaches to the column. Aren't most steering wheels splined (or the adapters) to ensure the wheel doesn't slip about the shaft? I trying to sort out how one could make the splines by themselves.

    Comment


    • #3
      Use the steering wheel without the splined adaper and it will bolt onto the 3" plate on the top of the steering shaft.
      No matter how many times I've tried I still can't rearrange 'Rat' to make it say Unsafe POS.

      Comment


      • #4
        That sounds great, got any pictures of one? Thanks for the write up.

        SCROUNGERS C.C. Arkansas
        64 C10 SWB
        55 Buick Riviera 4D HT

        Comment


        • #5
          On a side note: to the guy that he was working with on making his ibeam a suicide mount, my dad forgot to write down your email address out of his PM box. Email him at "drag ons hot rods(one word, no spaces) at yahoo dot com" and he will still get you those pics you needed.


          Peace
          Last edited by icebox88; 09-28-2012, 05:50 AM.
          "All anybody wants is a normal life and a cool car, most people settle for the car."

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          • #6
            Are there any pictures of this? What about adding a QD for the wheel to make getting in and out easier?

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            • #7
              yes ..
              any pics?????

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              • #8
                I bet it costs more than 20 bucks now.

                Comment


                • #9
                  I saved all pics in a folder...............FTW
                  Attached Files

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                  • #10
                    Some more..........
                    Attached Files

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                    • #11
                      Almost done...........
                      Attached Files

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                      • #12
                        ThThThats all folks............
                        Attached Files

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                        • #13
                          nice....
                          thanks for the pics, clears up a couple of ?s i had
                          yes the bearings cost $7 ea, the slip collars were just a couple of bucks for the pair
                          the steel though is another ?, i ordered it all yesterday and they were out of the 2" OD tube, will be here monday and will put up an updated cost amnd pics too of the progress

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                          • #14
                            Looks cool but need turn signal still to be legal.
                            Retro home made signal assembly..........?

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by hayboss View Post
                              Looks cool but need turn signal still to be legal.
                              Retro home made signal assembly..........?
                              They make aftermarket turn signals switches that bolt to a steering colum, and have for decades, or a toggle switch.

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