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  • tunnel ram

    I was wonderin if or what has to be done to put a tr1x tunnel ram on a new but stock 350 chevy im buildin.Jus bought it,its pose to have 500 holleys on it and i had planned on usin jus one carb. The other carb would jus be a dummy carb.Should i use the front or rear carb? This intake does have all 8 runners that share the same air not a 4 and 4 type. It will have flat top pistons and not the low compresion ones.Will have a decent cam but dont want to buy a stal covertor,tight budget.Any suggestions????
    cut dat chit weld that chit

  • #2
    I think it could be done but it may take some doing and it may be difficult to handle. What I mean is that I'd run the front position as fuel falls with G forces.
    The farthest cylinders may or may not run lean.You'll have to watch for signs.
    It'll be hard to start without a shot of fuel down the carburetor to get it going. It'll probably have a bog when you open it up while driving in traffic. You'll need the biggest accelerator pump you can get.
    The dummy carb will need to have it's base mount completely sealed.
    I think I'd run some 305 heads to get the velocity up.
    I'd run a small cam maybe even stock.
    It's gonna be a challenge to get right. It could be done though.

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    • #3
      Well, i wouldnt have a problem runnin both carbs i jus thought it would be to much fuel. I guess i could jet em down. Usin a hot ignition would help to right?
      cut dat chit weld that chit

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      • #4
        Run both carbs, just put a heavy spring in the rear vacuum cans, as essentially your shutting down the rear 2 barrels on each carb. You can plug them off....idle off your rear carb, have your idle mix on the 2nd carb turned all the way in on the front metering plate, then your essentially running a single 4 bbl. setup., with the looks of a 2x4 setup...without all those major tuning issues.
        The really small carbs give you decent fuel milage, and with the accelerator pump on both front ant rear carbs, you can change your pump cams so you won't flood it. Should be pretty close cause most of the 500 cfm carbs are pretty lean to start with unles someone has been jacking with them....
        On a mild 350 with a TR1, 390s are a good sized carb, even the 450's are too much, so you have to improvise. The mild 350's just don't flow enough cfm thru the heads to make use of anymore cfm at the carbs. TR's run good with mild street cams or hotter cams with variable lift lifters....
        Let us know how she runs.....
        Last edited by Screamin' Metal; 01-10-2011, 10:29 PM.

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        • #5
          the head number i was gonna use are 354434. I got about 7 other pair of heads but dont have them numbers yet their out in the other barn. So, are they any good? The carb numbers on the choke towers are 1850-2 and 0073
          cut dat chit weld that chit

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          • #6
            Here's your carb by the # you gave me....been outside fixing busted pipes today! Ha! Anyway, if you got 2 of those, run off the front 2 of each carb like I said....you should be good. Heads are decent, nothing to jump up and down about unless they have the 2.02 intakes with screw in studs and guideplates.
            If the do, clean them up, do a good valvejob and use them. Then run a warm cam, something like a stock performance grind for the Z28's....don't go with anything hotter. It wouldn't hurt to run the Rhoads Vari-lifters....at idle it'll sound close to stock, the extra lift will bleed off...will have a very light lope to it...then when you step on it....and oil pressure comes up....the lift will come back into play. Doing that tames the TR some....makes it more streetable. Crane or Competition Cams also makes a version of those lifters....

            LIST # CFM STOCK JETTING POWER VALVE TYPE Secondaries
            1850-2 600 (F)66,(R)plate 134-9 6.5 4160
            Last edited by Screamin' Metal; 01-11-2011, 07:08 PM.

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            • #7
              Just use them both an stab the gas an hold on !

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              • #8
                I know the heads dont have screw in studs or big valves. I will post the other head # this weekend to see if i may have a better pair. Thanks for this info!!!
                cut dat chit weld that chit

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                • #9
                  If you do decide to run both of them, and try running all 4 bbls. on each carb, do yourself a favor, run a progressive linkage.....2-600cfm carbs will be WAY too much for a mild 350....

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                  • #10
                    Yes Scream,, 500cfm is right for a bone stock 350.

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                    • #11
                      All the other heads i got have somethin wrong with them. Looks like a bad seat or two on all of them,that sux. Except for a pair of big valve 333882 which i hear a prone to crakin between seat on center two cyl's due to heat.
                      cut dat chit weld that chit

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                      • #12
                        882's are bad ass, if prepped right.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by suicide welder View Post
                          All the other heads i got have somethin wrong with them. Looks like a bad seat or two on all of them,that sux. Except for a pair of big valve 333882 which i hear a prone to crakin between seat on center two cyl's due to heat.
                          Like STR8 said....if prepped right! Have a really good valve job done and you'll have a great running motor! Horse-Power is made in the heads anyway!

                          The problem with those heads are you gotta have :
                          1. The valve guides have gotta be tight....best to run bronze bushings....
                          2. Enlarge your coolant holes in the heads to fit the gaskets....along with a hi-capacity water pump....should be OK....
                          Last edited by Screamin' Metal; 01-14-2011, 12:04 PM.

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                          • #14
                            A little update,since the block i was gonna use has way to much piston clearance for a stock rebuild and needs bored im gonna use one of the few four bolt main blocks. I didnt want to waste machining on a 2 bolt. So,if its .030 over flat tops,rebuilt 882 heads,what would be a good cam without a stall to use? Also which distributer would be affordable? Remember,not building a drag racer just want it to run right with the tunnel ram on a budget. That shoulda been the topic title "tunnel ram on a budget"Thanks for the info guys!!
                            cut dat chit weld that chit

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                            • #15
                              Well one 4 bolt block is .040 with lightly rusted rusted cylinders. The other block is tiny bit rusted dont know if its standard or not. 3970010 good?
                              cut dat chit weld that chit

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