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  • Frame help wanted.

    1. Hello guys itís me again, so Iíve fount a window in the Ohio title aspect. My 41 Plymouth cab did not have a title or vin. Since itís so old ohsp. Dept. has told me I can use a bill of sale(notorized)
      but... hereís the fun part I cannot use a already manufactured frame. So my s10 frame has to go. They said in Ohio if I had the title and vin I can use the frame but since I do not. I have to use a self assembled frame.
      ďHomemade/purchased parts ď so this brings me to my next question could you guys help me acquire information on building a frame. Maybe some things a young guy like myself will skip or ignore
    2. Iíve got the original straight axel I plan on using and the s10 rear end in the pictures. Thank you for your wisdom and help
    3. -Jeff
    Attached Files

  • #2
    When I built my 1st frame, I kept it as simple as I could. I bought 2 20' lengths of 2" x 4" rectangle tubing 1/8" thick. Then, I set my cab, front sheet metal, and box on the shop floor and determined how long I wanted the frame rails to be. I did a straight ladder frame. That would be straight side rails front to back. I added 4 crossmembers. one at the rear, one just forward of the rear axle, one at the transmission mount, and one just forward of the motor. The cross members were at 90 degrees to the side rails. Everything was square, flat, and straight. Once everything was positioned where I wanted them, it was all welded together. I used 4 leaf springs, and each spring sat just on the outside of the side rail tubing. I added brackets to attach the springs to the frame rails, keeping all the mounting brackets the same height, and square with each other. When I was happy with the spring placement, the brackets were welded into position. The springs and axles were bolted into position. Once the springs were in place, brackets to attach a shock on each spring was added to the frame.

    Then, all you have to do is add brackets for the steering box, the cab mount brackets, the box mounting brackets, radiator support brackets, and brackets to hold the front and rear bumpers on. Once all that is done, you will probably want to modify the transmission crossmember so it can be dropped to make it easier to remove the trans at some point.

    It would probably be a great idea to set everything into position so you know everything clears everything else before anything is fully welded. Tack welds in places they can be ground off easily are also a good plan to hold stuff in place for a test fit or three.

    Another option might be to get a different S10 or Dakota frame with a title and build from that, but it may come back titled as the S10 or the Dakota. I do suggest that if you move forward with the builder title, make sure you get a receipt and pay taxes on everything you use or it will bite you back. States want to be sure they can squeeze you for every penny that can get out of you, these days.

    I know this is pretty generic, I'm not going to pretend I know what measurements you need. It will however give you an idea what your up against. There are several frame builds in the 20s and 30s car and truck sections here that will be more specific, and will provide info on things you need to do for lowering your ride. Gene

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    • #3
      What he said.... ☝☝👨🏭😁

      And, don't be afraid to keep asking questions!

      Or Canadian laws are much different than yours but who's gonna check who built your frame??
      Isn't a frame "home made" as soon as it's modified?
      Or are you not allowed to use any part of a manufactured frame whatsoever?
      My build thread:
      https://www.killbillet.com/forum/20s...at-is-it/page7

      Comment


      • #4
        thank you gene ! and thanks killbilly! thats awesome because i was going to do the 4 leaf spring setup! i could ditch this cab and buy one with a title and use an s10 frame but ive watched this truck cab for 10 years in a field and it became a dream! im sure i will be on here with more questions! im also starting up a youtube account so if any of you guys have one it would be great to get your acoounts !
        -jeff

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        • #5
          Here's some inspiration...
          from my YouTube.

          https://youtu.be/awY2CakyFdU
          My build thread:
          https://www.killbillet.com/forum/20s...at-is-it/page7

          Comment


          • #6
            I have a 39 Dodge pickup (there is a build thread on the 30s truck section here). The Dodge, Plymouth, and Fargo trucks are all the same except for some trim pieces and the name tags. This truck series started in 1939 and ran through the end of 1947. The Plymouth version production ended in 41. The Fargo is the export version of a Dodge sold in other countries. This is the cab Dodge used on all military trucks up until about 1968, so there is a lot of aftermarket support for these trucks. For your information, the serial number tags on these trucks were held in position with screws, its not unusual to see the tags missing. Vintage Power wagons has replacement tags available pretty cheap. www,vintagepowerwagons.com and www.robertsmotorparts.com are two companies that are reproducing parts for these trucks, and I think its Dom Classic trucks that has replacement fenders and other body parts (but all the aftermarket is pretty pricy.) Gene

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            • #7
              Does anyone have any pictures of the leaf spring front end? All I keep finding is the single leaf spring on fords. But id like to keep the dual leaf spring setup, pictures would help. Just to get an idea. Iím getting my steel soon. Also gotta tear apart these wheels and try to repair any bearings haha figure out some stuff. The leaf springs seem like they are in good shape but I want to get new fasteners and all that good stuff.
              Attached Files

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              • #8
                Here are a few pictures of the way Dodge did the front springs on a 49-53 Dodge pickup. Pay little attention to the cab sitting on the frame, that frame was holding the cab until I had the chance to scrap it out a few days later. That full cab was worth $13 scrap! The original cab for this frame is sitting in the background on the 4th picture.
                Anyway, the frame is still here, and its sitting naked in my yard if you want a closeup of anything specific. It is a 4 leaf spring suspension frame. Gene
                Attached Files
                Last edited by Gene; 01-06-2020, 08:21 PM.

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                • #9
                  If you really want to replace fasteners be sure to buy grade 8 hardware (bolt heads with 6 lines on top)
                  👍
                  My build thread:
                  https://www.killbillet.com/forum/20s...at-is-it/page7

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    For future reference you can check out https://www.generalspringkc.com

                    They have tons of new stuff at pretty decent pricing. With a bit of research you can find plenty of cross-over applications. Example for my '30 Chev 1.5 ton: the identical rear spring measurements (front and back eyes to axle center are the same as 87-96 Jeep Wrangler. Weight ranges will vary, etc. The front axle springs are an exact dimensional match to the '36-'46 Chev rear leafs- heavy yes but you get my drift....

                    Post #3 has some interesting points to consider. Wanting to be straight forward and never have anything bit me in the muffler, I'd ask the state those technical questions just to see what they say.

                    Have fun with the build. The adventure is just beginning!
                    https://www.killbillet.com/forum/30s...the-30-chevyMy 1930 Chevy truck build link:

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