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Not sure its the way to build frames but its the way I do it.

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  • Not sure its the way to build frames but its the way I do it.

    I am building a model A frame for my 5 window coupe. Its a Z frame design built for a small block chevy and tubo 350 and 9" ford rearend.

    Step 1. set up your rearend at the ride height with the wheels you plan to use. then what I do is clamp a center Line to the table. pay extra attention to make sure that it is 90 degs from the rear axle. all the measurements will be based off the rear axle line and the center line of the car. next Pant marks on the table where your lines are so if something like a welding spark melts your string line you dont have to start all over agian.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by northroadchoppers; 10-28-2012, 01:27 PM.

  • #2
    At first glance I thought you may have been a roadie for Pink Floyd....the I saw the clamps. Hard to beat a string line for lining stuff up.

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    • #3
      step 2

      next I start by working from the back to the front. so I measure my body and find out how wide i want it to be. then I measure from my center line and clamp to strings on the table on each side to show me where the outside of my rails need to be. then I find out how wide my rails need to be in the front or where ever they need to change derections

      I am not the best writer out there so if something does not make alot of sence please tell me and I will try to explain it better

      on this frame my rails ran straght for 16" in front of my rear axle before they started moving endwords. next I measure my body and ran new string lines on the table where the front body mounts are going to be. all the table measurements are made from the rear axle and the centerline on the table.

      once your lines are clamped down or they can even be taped down to the floor all though its hard to keep your frame level and its hard to keep it square and you cant really clamp anything together. but if that all you have that all you got. I would even think a 2x4 wood table would be better than nothing

      next is I put something on my table to set my ride height of my frame rails. I wanted these rails to set 5" off the ground. so I used some 2x3 tubing and then I ran a peice of 2x2 tubing acoss the table and clamped or weld it in place. then I clamp my rails down to it. holding it in place. its easy to locate the rails using a plum bob or the edge of your frame rail down to your referance string you put on the table.
      Attached Files

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      • #4
        step 3

        next is where my frame makes the z up in the front.

        this part took some thinking on my part because my rails had to come up and they changed angles on the taper endwords at the front.

        I again set something up so I could clamp my rails where I wanted them to be at the ride height. then I set the taper that i measured off the string lines that I marked on my table and clamped eveything tight. then I came back to where the Z needed to come up and meet the front engine rails
        Attached Files

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        • #5
          step 4

          this is where I tie the front rails together. this frame is 3" longer than stock and plus the suide frontend.

          I tied it all together at my raditor cross member. pretty basic here. just clamp it in place and square it off the centerline on the table

          I had to set my engine and trans in so I knew where i wanted my raditor to sit dont forget to have your fan installed on your engine so you can set it at the right destance for good clearance and cooling.. then I used a piece of 2 1/2" pipe as my front cross member. 2 1/2" pipe has a 3" od so it maches my 2x3 engine rails nicely
          Attached Files
          Last edited by northroadchoppers; 10-28-2012, 02:31 PM.

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          • #6
            front axle mount

            the front axle mount is pretty straght forword. it is located off your center line on your table and needs to be level. this one is from speedway and is pretty nice. I can build one myself but my time is worth something too. I think it was like 20 bucks and I could spend a hour building one but its nice just to pull it out of a box and tack it on your rails and move on to building the rest of your frame.

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            • #7
              step 5

              step 5, locate the engine and build your mounts. the most I can say about the way I do this is just guess and roll with it haha but here are my pointers. I mount my engine based on getting to the transmission housing bolts, and ground clearance. I have a deep transmission oil pan so that was my low point so I set it at 5" off the ground and then I centerd it in the frame rails and leveled the carb flange mount on the engine. I like to use a front plate style engine mount. there easy and look old skool. but its all the same, just level your engine off the carb flange and give yourself the ground clearance you need. one note on ground clearance. nothing on your car should ever be lower the your lower edge of your rim on your wheels. well that just just good practice but as we all know good practice gets junked over cool any day of the week.
              Attached Files
              Last edited by northroadchoppers; 10-28-2012, 03:16 PM.

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              • #8
                step 6

                step 6 X members, Like I said before I am not a great car builder and everything I say may not be right but that is the way I roll. I am lucky and I have a tubing bender so I like to use it when ever I get the chance too. the whole point of the x member is to make your frame strong and tie everything together. the way I built this one was with the point of the car frame rails being the lowest pont of the car. I used 2x4 tubing for the main rails so I did not have alot of room to build a huge double tubing cross member like you see alot. one thing that I have learned a long time ago was make a good removable transmission mount. one that if you change your transmission or mind you can build a new mount that will work with your frames x member. the next thing is as you all know these older cars dont have alot of room. so with that being said, try to think things all the way though. like leave room for exhaust and mufflers. even if you dont plan on using them try to think down the road when the cops are on your ass every time you drive your loud ass car downtown and you change your mind about having a loud car and now you have no room under your car for mufflers and have to mount them so low you drag them around everywhere you go. next if your car has a brake master cylinder under the car leave room for it. other things to think about is brake lines, porptional valves, elec fuel pumps and fuel fliters
                Attached Files

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                • #9
                  step 7

                  today I got to build the transmission mount and the mount the brake master cylinder. nothing to much to talk about here just build a removeable mount in case you need to change to a differant type of transmission. on this mount I used some old bushing I had left over from a old circle track car. I think they were lower arm bushings, I found a pipe that they fit inside really good so I used them. theres no reason you cant just use some bolts and some tabs. I did use 1 x 2 square tube and i needed to drill holes in the middel of it. I like to use small tubing inside to keep the holes from distorting when you bolt things down tight.

                  note: I like to use premade brakets and tabs. I found that I dont save any money by making my own after you buy the metal, cutting disks, sand paper saw blades and then they still dont come out as good as the ones you can buy online for 2 bucks each. do yourself a favor buy a few extra each project and pretty soon you will have a good selection.

                  next I did have to build a mount for my brake pedel braket and the popostional valve. I just used a peace of 2x4 square tubing and cut it at the angle that I needed and drilled a few hole in it. it came out pretty good and seems pretty strong. I dont want my brake pedal feeling weak or flexing around under heavy braking.
                  Attached Files

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                  • #10
                    What size tubing and thickness are you using. And on your front rails is it the same size? Looking at your pics they seem to taper down towards the front I like the look of your build just trying to get all my ducks in a row for mine.. Ty

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                    • #11
                      you might want to pm him as this is almost a year old.

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                      • #12
                        I used to use 3/4 plywood, 2 sheets, fastened together on a level floor. I'd screw 2x2, or 2x4 blocks on each side of the 2x3 frame rails after I squared everything up to hold everything in place. Poor mans jig in other words. Built 2 or 3 race cars like that.

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                        • #13
                          sorry been gone for a while. I used 2x3 and 2x4 3/16" thick wall and no they are not taperd on the ends.

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                          • #14
                            Any chance the pictures are available that go with this thread?

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