Engine Mount Fabrication Tips & Tricks Needed.

[ctruss53]

I am building a 1930 Chevy Coupe, using a 1930 Model A frame, and an unusual engine.

I am searching for tips and tricks for properly locating the engine in the frame to make engine mounts. I have to make them from scratch, there is nothing out there I can use. The engine comes from a transverse front wheel drive application and I have adapted a rear wheel drive transmission to it and need to mount it longitudinally.

There are engine mounting holes on each side of the engine block that I can build off of. But the engine is also designed to sit at a 30 degree slant (no, it is not a slant 6).

Is it as simple as setting the engine on a jack and positioning it until it looks good. Then make sure it is centered and lined up and make mounts that reach the frame on each side?
Or should I build some sort of cradle / crossmember for the engine to sit in, and then modify that to fit the frame?

Thanks in advance for the tips.

[Gene]

So, is the adapted rear wheel drive transmission going to be OK with the motor being mounted at the 30 degree angle? If not, that will need to be addressed first.

Past that, yes, its as simple as hanging the motor & trans in its location in the frame, at a 90 degree angle to the rear axle and build brackets to reach the frame on both sides with rubber between the motor & the frame someplace, to reduce vibration. It is not necessary for the motor to be centered in the frame, sometimes an off set motor makes extra room for steering or exhaust clearance in the frame. Most auto manufacturers do not center the motor between the frame rails, the motor is positioned to give the clearance needed so everything fits. The height the motor sits in relation to the frame can also be adjusted to make things clear better. I believe since the motor was originally a transverse mounted motor now mounted inline, it may be pretty important to be sure your motor is mounted level with the ground front to back (plus or minus about 3 degrees), while in the car. A pair of universal joints in a drive shaft can accommodate up to a 30 degree angle total, up and down, and-or side to side.

I've built a few custom motor mounts in my days. Gene

[ctruss53]

So, is the adapted rear wheel drive transmission going to be OK with the motor being mounted at the 30 degree angle? If not, that will need to be addressed first.

Past that, yes, its as simple as hanging the motor & trans in its location in the frame, at a 90 degree angle to the rear axle and build brackets to reach the frame on both sides with rubber between the motor & the frame someplace, to reduce vibration. It is not necessary for the motor to be centered in the frame, sometimes an off set motor makes extra room for steering or exhaust clearance in the frame. Most auto manufacturers do not center the motor between the frame rails, the motor is positioned to give the clearance needed so everything fits. The height the motor sits in relation to the frame can also be adjusted to make things clear better. I believe since the motor was originally a transverse mounted motor now mounted inline, it may be pretty important to be sure your motor is mounted level with the ground front to back (plus or minus about 3 degrees), while in the car. A pair of universal joints in a drive shaft can accommodate up to a 30 degree angle total, up and down, and-or side to side.

I've built a few custom motor mounts in my days. Gene

Thank you for the information, Gene.

First, the adaptor takes into account the need for the motor to lean over 30 degrees, while keeping the transmission level. So I am good there.

And I think the biggest piece of info here is that the engine doesn't have to be centered. I just assumed that it did. Knowing this, I will keep that in mind to make sure I have room for things.

I bought some rubber hockey puck style motor mounts for the project. My original plan was to make a mount on each side of the motor with a flat bottom, then a corresponding mount on each side of the frame with a flat top. Then drop in the rubber mounts. If this type of engine mount will work, I guess that is where this topic of discussion comes in. Tips and tricks to make lining all this up a bit easier.

Thanks again for your input.

[2.3Turbo_T]

OK, you've got my attention! Transverse to inline..........what are you swapping into the '30 Chevy? Would love to see some pics!
My original intention was to take a transverse SHO motor, flip it to inline and drop it into my '54 Customline. I decided however, to go somewhat traditional and run a 5.0/AOD combo.

[ctruss53]

OK, you've got my attention! Transverse to inline..........what are you swapping into the '30 Chevy? Would love to see some pics!
My original intention was to take a transverse SHO motor, flip it to inline and drop it into my '54 Customline. I decided however, to go somewhat traditional and run a 5.0/AOD combo.

I am using a 2.3L turbo out of a 1995 Saab 9000. I have an adaptor plate that mounts a BMW M3 6 speed on the end of it.

As for pics. I have a complete build thread going. :)

https://www.killbillet.com/forum/30s...e-with-a-twist

WAIT. You have replied in my build thread.

[2.3Turbo_T]

Yep, remember it now! I totally forgot about the thread. You've made substantial progress since I Iast checked! Welds are looking much better, also. I can't wait to see the Saaby/6-spd combo installed. That'll be a head turner! BTW.....bullet holes in door = character! Consider it!

[ctruss53]

Yep, remember it now! I totally forgot about the thread. You've made substantial progress since I Iast checked! Welds are looking much better, also. I can't wait to see the Saaby/6-spd combo installed. That'll be a head turner! BTW.....bullet holes in door = character! Consider it!

The body is full of bullet holes. They are all staying.

[Burnin#2]

I good tip I learned is to use 4 turn buckles, pick a spot on each corner of the engine to bolt one end of the turnbuckle to, then the 4 corners of your frame where the engine sits.
support most of the weight of the engine on a lift and use the turnbuckles to dial in to the perfect position, then you can easily fabricate motor mounts that fit perfectly without worrying about bumping something out of position while fitting stuff up.

Also, make sure the rubber mounts you choose have some sort of mechanical retention built in as all engine mounts have, what I mean, is make sure if the rubber breaks the engine won't spin in the engine compartment.
👍

[ctruss53]

I good tip I learned is to use 4 turn buckles, pick a spot on each corner of the engine to bolt one end of the turnbuckle to, then the 4 corners of your frame where the engine sits.
support most of the weight of the engine on a lift and use the turnbuckles to dial in to the perfect position, then you can easily fabricate motor mounts that fit perfectly without worrying about bumping something out of position while fitting stuff up.

Also, make sure the rubber mounts you choose have some sort of mechanical retention built in as all engine mounts have, what I mean, is make sure if the rubber breaks the engine won't spin in the engine compartment.
👍

Here is what I am using for mounts. I need to fabricate the metal parts for my engine, but I am using those rubber puck style mount bushings.
Capture by Chad Truss, on Flickr

[Gene]

Those motor mounts will work great as long as there is a bolt passing through both steel plates and both pieces of rubber. You also probably want some kind of a metal sleeve going through the rubber so the bolt has a positive stop with a bit of rubber compression. Without the steel sleeve, the bolt will continues to work loose and tightening the bolt often results in the rubber splitting. Gene