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Once again..... prepping bare metal arresting rust

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  • Once again..... prepping bare metal arresting rust

    Hi Guys.... Gene,

    Hope everyone is well and having some fun. All good here. I have the 40 down to bare metal. Took it down with one of those polyester type wheels on the 4" grinder. No scale, no surface rust but some lets call the dark spots where I've removed all the rust....really not even pitting just discoloration. I want to prep the metal to clean it, then apply something before the skim coat of gold rage, then seal the bondo. My local body shop supply house is telling me to put a coat of zero rust down, then bondo over that, then a epoxy primer. When we prepped the nova we bondo'd on bare metal, then primed with a 2 stage primer called 4CR 2K Primer. Any tips on this to eliminate any reocurring rust issues?

    Some input on what you did and how many years have gone by without any reocuring issues would be great.


  • #2
    Its probably good to put this into proper perspective. Your 40 survived 80 years with what the factory put on it in 1939-1940. Sure, there are places that have rust through. Places where water was trapped, or critters built nests and used the area for a toilet. Then it faced all the weather and temperature swings, and whatever some owner may have put it through, with possibly little or no care.

    Now that it is in your care, it will probably live a pretty pampered life compared to what it has seen in its past. Given that it now has new metal replacing that which rusted, how many more years will it have to live for you to be happy? Another 80 years isn't really out of the question if you only take it back to what was originally done with it when it left the factory (which was much) is it?

    Years ago, I did a 35 Dodge that had rust along the roof that was badly pitted. At the time, I sanded the area, and cleaned it as good as I could. Then I bought a can of spray rust converter called "Extend". The directions said to clean the area, and give it two coats of coverage with the Extend, then to prime the area, fill as needed, then paint in the usual method. This would have been way before the modern epoxy or 2K primers. I drove that car 7 years, so I probably owned it at least 10 years including the build time. It all that time, I never got as much as a bubble in the paint above the rust pits.

    I suspect the Zero Rust is a converter like the Extend I used back in the day (probably a better product then the $6 spray can stuff I used). The rust converter seals the metal from oxygen getting at it (which is what causes the rust) it changes the rust that is present to iron oxide (the ore metal originally came from) and then you are applying bondo filler directly to the metal, which is usually recommended. I don't get the epoxy primer over the filler, its usually applied to bare metal, but then again, I'm not a paint and body guy. If your skim coating the whole thing, I suspect a high build 2K primer, or a sealer would work as well or better then the epoxy after doing a skim coat of filler, but that is probably a question for a paint guy.

    Follow the directions and cautions on the Zero Rust. Gene


    • #3
      Thank you Gene. Your always very helpful and seem to be spot on. As you may remember....I'm 64 so 80 years I don't have or need! LOL Twenty with out anything coming out would suit me just fine,,,, by then I'll be in Rat Rod Heaven (if such a place) or if still here not care! I'm gona stop at the supply house today and pick his brain some more. I'll check on that epoxy over the plastic. That is what we did on the Nova and nothing back in 15 years. I'll share what I learn. I hope your revamp is coming along well. I have to peek in at your thread. Stay well my friend. Couper