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Patch Panels from DCM Classics in Michigan

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  • Patch Panels from DCM Classics in Michigan

    Hey guys has anyone used patch panels from DCM? Or any other company? I'm looking for cab corners, rear lower panel between the corners and door bottoms.

    Thanks guys
    Couper

  • #2
    I've seen them listed before, they sure look pretty! I'm too cheap to buy replacement panels. I can buy a 48" x 96" sheet of 18 gauge sheet metal for about the cost of a couple of patch panels at most places. Then I can spend hours hacking out my own patch panels and still have enough metal left to make a couple more patches. Mine probably are not going to look as pretty as those stamped versions, but they will do the job, and leave me with money to but the things I can't make. I have on rare (very rare) occasions bought a few very complex patch panels that would have been very hard to make myself, but after they have arrived at my place, I'm often pretty upset with myself for buying them. Gene

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Gene View Post
      I've seen them listed before, they sure look pretty! I'm too cheap to buy replacement panels. I can buy a 48" x 96" sheet of 18 gauge sheet metal for about the cost of a couple of patch panels at most places. Then I can spend hours hacking out my own patch panels and still have enough metal left to make a couple more patches. Mine probably are not going to look as pretty as those stamped versions, but they will do the job, and leave me with money to but the things I can't make. I have on rare (very rare) occasions bought a few very complex patch panels that would have been very hard to make myself, but after they have arrived at my place, I'm often pretty upset with myself for buying them. Gene
      I think your right pal....I looked everything over today. I can definitly do these myself. The inner doors they have are very nice but if I lose a few of the ribs who cares..... I'm not doing a restoration of original.

      Some progress over the week. I have the rear of the cab down to bare metal and the doors are off. I had to drill 3 of the pins.... only 1 was able to be knocked out with a drift pin. I'm having a hard time getting the lock out of one of the doors. I can't remove the set lock cly set screw and the square drive that goes from the handle to the linkage if you will is seized......can't get it out. Tryed heat but no dice. Think I'm just going to have to cut it with the torch.

      I also sold the rack body dump assy.... bed, cly, all linkage levers, pto and the drive off the trans. $500.00 plus an upper grill shell.

      Hope everyone had a great weekend!

      Couper

      Comment


      • #4
        Couper, On my 39, I drilled a small hole through the inside panel at about the position of the square shaft of the door handle where it went through the latch assembly. Then I could spray some penetrating oil through the hole for a couple of days. After a few days of soaking, I could use a long punch and drive the square bar through the door latch with a hammer from the inside. Be sure you remove the two screws on the outside door latch, the handle is attached to the square bar and the square bar and the handle come off the door as one piece. My door didn't have a lock, but in the past I've had to drill out the lock set screw. They don't like to come apart. Both of my latches were in good shape. The door pins are available in a lot of places, so don't get screwed on the price of them. They were originally 1/4" diameter, so even 1/4" bolts work.

        New latches and new door handles are available at www.vintagepowerwagons.com They are pretty expensive stuff, but I think these are the guys that actually have the re-pops made and are about the least expensive latches and handles I've seen. The other site I usually go to early in my searches for parts for these is www.robertsautoparts.com They also re-pop a lot of parts. The best prices I've seen for replacement door locks with keys is on ebay. A lock on the driver side door wasn't even an option on Dodge trucks until 51 or 52, so if your driver door has a lock, its not OEM. I bought a pair of locking door handles with matching keys through Vintage Power wagons for my 39, not as convenient as the original stuff, but at least I can lock the doors now if I want. Gene

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Gene View Post
          Couper, On my 39, I drilled a small hole through the inside panel at about the position of the square shaft of the door handle where it went through the latch assembly. Then I could spray some penetrating oil through the hole for a couple of days. After a few days of soaking, I could use a long punch and drive the square bar through the door latch with a hammer from the inside. Be sure you remove the two screws on the outside door latch, the handle is attached to the square bar and the square bar and the handle come off the door as one piece. My door didn't have a lock, but in the past I've had to drill out the lock set screw. They don't like to come apart. Both of my latches were in good shape. The door pins are available in a lot of places, so don't get screwed on the price of them. They were originally 1/4" diameter, so even 1/4" bolts work.

          The hole lined up wth the sqaure shaft for the handle is a great idea! I tried drilling that set screw and didn't have any luck...... I think it's hardened. I' gona have another go at it tonight.


          New latches and new door handles are available at www.vintagepowerwagons.com They are pretty expensive stuff, but I think these are the guys that actually have the re-pops made and are about the least expensive latches and handles I've seen. The other site I usually go to early in my searches for parts for these is www.robertsautoparts.com They also re-pop a lot of parts. The best prices I've seen for replacement door locks with keys is on ebay. A lock on the driver side door wasn't even an option on Dodge trucks until 51 or 52, so if your driver door has a lock, its not OEM. I bought a pair of locking door handles with matching keys through Vintage Power wagons for my 39, not as convenient as the original stuff, but at least I can lock the doors now if I want. Gene
          My latches are in great shape. Do you know what state the roberts was in.....that's a dead link. Although they don't list my versoin of the truck I do see handles and parts on the vintagepowerwagon site that do look the same. I did see the handles with the locks built in....I like that idea.

          Thanks again Gene.

          Comment


          • #6
            Would probably help if I gave you the correct website address for Roberts. www.robertsmotorparts.com. You want to look in the truck section.
            Parts for your truck at Vintage Power Wagon would be the same as the open or closed cab. They list stuff a bit differently there. They look at stuff from the military perspective, not the size or year of the truck. All the Dodge cabs from 39-47 are the same, so parts from your truck will fall under a few different body style letters there. Gene

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Gene View Post
              Would probably help if I gave you the correct website address for Roberts. www.robertsmotorparts.com. You want to look in the truck section.
              Parts for your truck at Vintage Power Wagon would be the same as the open or closed cab. They list stuff a bit differently there. They look at stuff from the military perspective, not the size or year of the truck. All the Dodge cabs from 39-47 are the same, so parts from your truck will fall under a few different body style letters there. Gene
              Thanks Gene....Roberts link is correct now. No progress last night.... very busy with the real job. Keep you posted.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Couper View Post

                I think your right pal....I looked everything over today. I can definitly do these myself. The inner doors they have are very nice but if I lose a few of the ribs who cares..... I'm not doing a restoration of original.

                Some progress over the week. I have the rear of the cab down to bare metal and the doors are off. I had to drill 3 of the pins.... only 1 was able to be knocked out with a drift pin. I'm having a hard time getting the lock out of one of the doors. I can't remove the set lock cly set screw and the square drive that goes from the handle to the linkage if you will is seized......can't get it out. Tryed heat but no dice. Think I'm just going to have to cut it with the torch.

                I also sold the rack body dump assy.... bed, cly, all linkage levers, pto and the drive off the trans. $500.00 plus an upper grill shell.

                Hope everyone had a great weekend!

                Couper
                Hey Gene,

                Followed your advice with drilling the hole..... super! Thank you.

                Next question.... you mentioned 18 ga on the panels patches. The door skins measure .045 which points to 18ga (.048). Sees aweful flimsy to me. I also had to cut out the reforced section above the windsheild inside the cab. The structure that houses the wiper motors and covers the window hinges.....that measured .060 which pints to 16 ga. Is the 18 enough for the door panels, corners & bottom rear between the corners? It seems that the bent lip on the corners also measures .060. Any chance if you know if all the sheetmetal is the same thruout the cab or is it different in different area's?

                Thanks,
                Couper

                Comment


                • #9
                  Couper,
                  There are some places where the Dodge used thicker metal, it was usually for reinforcement in areas of higher stress. Any area where something would bolt to the sheet metal is either thicker, or a doubled panel (like the pinch welded lips the window rubber would set on.)
                  16 gauge is hard stuff to work with, most hand tools can't cut it, and its difficult to bend it with hand tools. 18 gauge on the bottom of your doors will be fine. If it does cause you concern, I would recommend that you put in the 16 gauge where ever you may find some, because if it bothers you and you don't put it in, it would cut down on your excitement for driving the truck.

                  In most locations where you see 16 gauge, the 18 will probably hold up just fine, because the odds are pretty high your truck won't see the high stress levels Dodge had to build your truck to withstand. Your truck probably isn't going to have to do the heavy field work, loaded to capacity, in every weather condition, like it may have been expected to endure when Dodge sold it new.

                  One thing I did do was I used 1/8" steel flat stock reinforcement anyplace I was installing seat belt bolts. 2" round 1'8" pieces under the floor at any seat belt bolt location.

                  Do you have wiper motors in your truck? Most truck wiper motors were vacuum motors, though some electric motors were available as special order. Replacement wiper stuff is really expensive for these trucks. Passenger side wipers were optional.
                  Also, is your windshield frame good? They too are hard to find, and expensive. Hinges tend to freeze up, but can usually be worked free if you let then submerged in a rust breaking salutation. I have a good windshield crank setup here if you need one. I built a center post for my 39 and had the new windshield bonded in. Gene

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Gene View Post
                    Couper,
                    There are some places where the Dodge used thicker metal, it was usually for reinforcement in areas of higher stress. Any area where something would bolt to the sheet metal is either thicker, or a doubled panel (like the pinch welded lips the window rubber would set on.)
                    16 gauge is hard stuff to work with, most hand tools can't cut it, and its difficult to bend it with hand tools. 18 gauge on the bottom of your doors will be fine. If it does cause you concern, I would recommend that you put in the 16 gauge where ever you may find some, because if it bothers you and you don't put it in, it would cut down on your excitement for driving the truck.

                    In most locations where you see 16 gauge, the 18 will probably hold up just fine, because the odds are pretty high your truck won't see the high stress levels Dodge had to build your truck to withstand. Your truck probably isn't going to have to do the heavy field work, loaded to capacity, in every weather condition, like it may have been expected to endure when Dodge sold it new.

                    One thing I did do was I used 1/8" steel flat stock reinforcement anyplace I was installing seat belt bolts. 2" round 1'8" pieces under the floor at any seat belt bolt location.

                    Do you have wiper motors in your truck? Most truck wiper motors were vacuum motors, though some electric motors were available as special order. Replacement wiper stuff is really expensive for these trucks. Passenger side wipers were optional.
                    Also, is your windshield frame good? They too are hard to find, and expensive. Hinges tend to freeze up, but can usually be worked free if you let then submerged in a rust breaking salutation. I have a good windshield crank setup here if you need one. I built a center post for my 39 and had the new windshield bonded in. Gene

                    G'morning Gene,

                    Cool beans.... I'll go with the 18 ga.....thanks. Once done this will be in the garage and will not be seeing any stress or in the bad weather.

                    Gotcha on the seat belt reinforcements.....sounds like a good idea.

                    Yes the truck had 2 wiper motors but the shafts were cut. The reinforced sheet metal they are house in is rotted bad. That piece had the most rot of the whole truck....inside. I thought that was odd. The windshield frame is decent but somewhat rotted at the bottom. The window channel is good except for the top passenger side for about 18". I'll have to fabricate a piece and weld it in. The windshield crank is good. I'd like to keep that option if I can get it right, if not bonding it in is a good idea. I a going to chop it so the windshield will be shorter....the glass is broke and the hinges are good....just stiff.

                    I'll be ordering the sheetmetal this week and will keep you posted....and will be sure to yell at my next stumbling block.

                    Thanks
                    Couper

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      The windshield wiper area created a nice, safe, weather protected, area for small critters to build nests. The end result is a lot of metal damage in that area. Be careful when you clean that area out, the stuff the little critters left there can cause a lot of serious health issues if you breath in the dust from it, a cheap mask style respirator is recommended for the clean up. You may also want to check the condition of the bottom metal piece of that enclosed box. If you plan on opening and closing your windshield often, you might want to be sure the welds and the metal in the hinge areas are good.
                      The windshield frame on my 39 was much the same way, the top was great, but the bottom of mine was pure junk. I do have another top 1/2 here that I had considered cutting the brackets off my bottom part and welding them to the 2nd top part, but my bottom piece is in such bad shape, I can't be sure the top and the bottom have the same basic shape. Good rust free windshield frames go for nearly $1,000 and nearly all have been known to leak water between the glass and the frame (that's why the bottom of the frames are rotted out), and also between the frame and the truck cab. I filled in the hings holes and the window crank hole and went with the bonded glass. I've had trucks that had windshield leaks before, I much prefer having dry feet.

                      The wipers are another deal. Very expensive for new aftermarket stuff that was made for these trucks. The reviews show the cheap options say they do not hold up very well. I haven't done anything with mine yet. Gene

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Gene View Post
                        The windshield wiper area created a nice, safe, weather protected, area for small critters to build nests. The end result is a lot of metal damage in that area. Be careful when you clean that area out, the stuff the little critters left there can cause a lot of serious health issues if you breath in the dust from it, a cheap mask style respirator is recommended for the clean up. You may also want to check the condition of the bottom metal piece of that enclosed box. If you plan on opening and closing your windshield often, you might want to be sure the welds and the metal in the hinge areas are good.
                        The windshield frame on my 39 was much the same way, the top was great, but the bottom of mine was pure junk. I do have another top 1/2 here that I had considered cutting the brackets off my bottom part and welding them to the 2nd top part, but my bottom piece is in such bad shape, I can't be sure the top and the bottom have the same basic shape. Good rust free windshield frames go for nearly $1,000 and nearly all have been known to leak water between the glass and the frame (that's why the bottom of the frames are rotted out), and also between the frame and the truck cab. I filled in the hings holes and the window crank hole and went with the bonded glass. I've had trucks that had windshield leaks before, I much prefer having dry feet.

                        The wipers are another deal. Very expensive for new aftermarket stuff that was made for these trucks. The reviews show the cheap options say they do not hold up very well. I haven't done anything with mine yet. Gene
                        Haha yes.....soe critters built a nest out of what looked like cotton. I have to fabricate that whole box. I'll attach a picture.... I' not worried about wipers, I will prob delete the but would like to be able to open the front window....I think that looks way cool when open. If a problem I will bond the glass in as wellI. I'll also have to fab and weld in a piece at the top of the windshield channel as well. Pictures attached
                        Attached Files

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