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Fuel system double-check: starting from scratch!

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  • Fuel system double-check: starting from scratch!

    So I'm working on just one system at a time.....and for now, that's the fuel system.

    Here's where I'm at: the fuel tank is out and about the coated up. At this point, I'm planning on a simple belly drain to get the fuel from the tank, so I won't really have a traditional fuel gauge. I also won't have a "fuel sock" and sucking tube to draw fuel up and out of the tank; it's just going to drain out via a gravity-feed belly drain.

    That will run down into a 5/16" copper line for approx 4 feet, give or take. Along the way I'm routing it though a bomber traditional GM filter, in order to grab any trash coming from the tank. Next, it moves along into the electric fuel pump, situated roughly halfway between the tank and the carbs. Again, all using the 5/16" copper fuel line at this point.

    From the pump, it runs another several feet where it hits the firewall, where it then turns up and runs through a plastic see-through-style fuel filter.

    This is where I'm stuck: I'm running a pair of Edelbrock 4 bbl carbs atop a tunnel ram intake. How do I run the fuel to both carbs without the entire setup looking like a rag-rag homemade mess?

    Here's the problem: my carbs are further apart than you'd think. They don't measure up in a traditional manner - meaning they're roughly 10 3/4" apart. Far apart - too far for any traditional fuel lines to reach. We custom made the linkage, but now I'm trying to deal with the fuel lines. Any ideas?

    I'll post up a photo here shortly.....

  • #2
    A few things I think I'd change:
    1st, I would not use copper tubing for a fuel line. Copper is pretty soft and will be very easy to damage, it won't last long.
    2nd, I would be welding a threaded insert with a double flair style end into your tank.
    3rd, Some kind of shut off valve at the bottom of the tank is another good plan, if you ever need to change something in the fuel line, being able to stop the gas flow coming out of the tank sure beats having to drain it every time, or watch the fuel dump on the ground until the tank is empty.
    4th, I think with dual quads, the 5/16" line is going to be too small. I would use a 3/8" steel lines with the double flair fittings on the ends for fuel lines, there would be less chances for leaks.
    5th, Put your electric fuel pump as close to the tank as possible, with a filter between it and the tank.

    As far as splitting the fuel lines for the carbs, you can get a simple brass 3 way Tee with the double flair ends. (Think Tees like they use on brake lines only for 3/8" lines). One connect to your supply line, one goes to one carb and the 3rd goes to the other carb. If you want to add a see through filter (don't use glass), add it between the supply line and the brass Tee.

    I'm not trying to pick on you here, but maybe save you from the big fiery mess I experienced when the copper tubing I was using work hardened and broke and the fuel pump kept pumping fuel. Lucky for me someone had a big fire extinguisher near by, Even after I shut off the electric pump, I still got to watch nearly 13 gallons of fuel run onto the ground because of the broken copper line. Gene

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Gene View Post
      A few things I think I'd change:
      1st, I would not use copper tubing for a fuel line. Copper is pretty soft and will be very easy to damage, it won't last long.
      2nd, I would be welding a threaded insert with a double flair style end into your tank.
      3rd, Some kind of shut off valve at the bottom of the tank is another good plan, if you ever need to change something in the fuel line, being able to stop the gas flow coming out of the tank sure beats having to drain it every time, or watch the fuel dump on the ground until the tank is empty.
      4th, I think with dual quads, the 5/16" line is going to be too small. I would use a 3/8" steel lines with the double flair fittings on the ends for fuel lines, there would be less chances for leaks.
      5th, Put your electric fuel pump as close to the tank as possible, with a filter between it and the tank.

      As far as splitting the fuel lines for the carbs, you can get a simple brass 3 way Tee with the double flair ends. (Think Tees like they use on brake lines only for 3/8" lines). One connect to your supply line, one goes to one carb and the 3rd goes to the other carb. If you want to add a see through filter (don't use glass), add it between the supply line and the brass Tee.

      I'm not trying to pick on you here, but maybe save you from the big fiery mess I experienced when the copper tubing I was using work hardened and broke and the fuel pump kept pumping fuel. Lucky for me someone had a big fire extinguisher near by, Even after I shut off the electric pump, I still got to watch nearly 13 gallons of fuel run onto the ground because of the broken copper line. Gene
      Gene - you are AWESOME! Thank you so much for all those suggestions!

      You're not the first to mention that I should bail on the copper. Consider that done. Furthermore, another buddy mentioned that the 5/16" will leave me wanting more - so I've ordered enough of the 3/8" NiCopp line to replace everything that's in place now. While I'm at it, I'll move the filter and pump much closer to the tank - and add a shut-off valve. Great idea! I would have never thought about that....but the idea of watching 25 gals of fuel spill all over is quite frustrating - so I'm more that willing to make that improvement. (Forgot to mention that I had the local machine shop weld in a pair of threaded inserts; one at the very bottom for draining, and one near the bottom on the side that I'm planning to use for my main line out.)

      Those are EXACTLY the suggestions that I needed! I've ordered another wave of parts, hopefully taking me one step closer to bringing this ol' gal to life! I cannot thank you enough!
      Last edited by vintage_mpg; 07-22-2020, 08:30 AM.

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      • #4
        Happy to be of some assistance. Thank you for letting my know it was helpful.
        Sometimes this old man feels like he is ruining some guys plans when my suggestions do not line up with what they have laid out. Gene

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        • #5
          When your running your lines it is best if you can put a couple coils in it where it goes from the frame to the engine... if your using rubber engine mounts... alot like brake lines are done at the master cylinder to allow the flex of the rubber mounts... unless you have a section of rubber to allow movement.
          also if you are gonna run a filter before the pump it must be a suction filter which will be just a screen. Then if you desire a finer filter after the pump before the carbs.
          I personally wouldn't bother with a filter before the pump...
          I did that on a 4x4 truck of mine and every few months the pump would get whiney and the finest junk would need to be cleaned... I eventually swapped it so the filter was after the pump.... never had an issue. Just dont use the Jerry can beside the woodshed with no lid that full of mouse ****...
          be sure to put nice clean fuel in it.
          My build thread:
          https://www.killbillet.com/forum/20s...at-is-it/page7

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