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42 Chevy

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  • #16
    Originally posted by Bails View Post
    Looks awesome.
    You running just guards, or running boards as well?
    Single bicycle guards on each wheel with an exposed backbone as a feature (refer sketch)
    I didn't want a large single guard over both wheels, i think you then loose some of the effect of the duals
    Have had a design for a while but have not been completely happy with the supports from the rear so hence the reason there not finished
    Have used circular boat trailer guards as the start point

    No running boards
    Attached Files


    • #17
      Originally posted by Ace 666 View Post
      Don't know how I missed this one , really great looking and well built ride . I ask this question for information only , it is not meant as criticism in any way shape or form . With all the regulations you have had to deal with I would assume your scrub line was one of them . It looks like the bottom of your cab is the lowest point of the vehicle and meets the scrub line requirements . How come you didn't make the frame under the cab the same distance from the ground as the cab . That would have given you less of a channel and some more head room and maybe allowed you to have a more comfortable seating height .
      Minimum clearance height for full rego with this wheel base (>3000mm) is 125mm (5")
      The height of the chassis is set by the lowest point of the gearbox (approx 150mm, 6" above the ground)
      This was used as i wanted to retain the orginal pedal interface with the bell housing , mech starter, throtle linkage etc
      Not as easy as i orginally thought

      The body height was then lowered to a similar height above the ground (6") which allowed me 1" for any errors in how the car eventually sat with the rear spring setup
      I have packers that i can use to either lower or raise the back end if necessary

      Having said all that there is a potenial problem that any over large speed bump or gutter will crush the lower sills
      For this reason i have been considered adding some form of UHMW skids to the underside of teh chassis to protect the sills

      The top of the seats are similar height position to orginal (once the fuel tank and orginal seat base removed)
      I'm tall so have had to alter the seat backs (remove the springs and reshaped the frame to gain 4-5") to get further back in the cab (photo)
      Have keep the runners on the seat base so the wife at only 5' can also still drive
      Attached Files


      • #18
        Awesome work.

        I am in Aus too and am about to go through the process of getting approval for a 318-360 V8 into a 57 Royal.
        In W.A so most likely different process somewhat to what you are going through.
        And I assume you are getting this done as a One Off Vehicle type rego arrangement?

        I am not sure where to even start the process...

        Did it cost you anything when you submitted your designs etc to the Licensing Dept for approval?


        • #19
          Also door cards were mentioned previously...
          Could you run with clear perspex so you still get the rat rod feel of bare doors?


          • #20
            Vehicle being registered as a street rod
            Unsure what happens in WA
            Application to build - $150
            1st inspection - $300
            2nd inspection - $250
            Final inspection and brake test - unknown
            Also have to be a memebre of the ASRF - approx $90 for 2 years (don't quote me on that)

            Currently have problems with the TAC as they have now said no to the wheels after having orginally signed off on them.
            Wheels need to have double safety hump (JJ)
            Problem is that current wheels set the height , suspension etc
            New truck rims will be larger again at 22.5, they also don't come with the safety humps

            Unsure what cost associated with registering a modified or individually constructed vehicle or if i could still go down that path.

            Door skins are orginal pressed sheet and will just be painted in flat black for the look i'm after

            Best of luck with getting yours started


            • #21
              Hi Blacktruck,
              I am new to the site and have just come across your build info. This truck is one hell of a sexy machine.
              I am Sydney NSW based and would love to start a similar build.
              How did you go getting it finished - I would love to see some more shots.
              Like other newbies, I am new to the process and are trying to get my head around what is needed to start a build that I can legally drive in NSW. I understand the basics that you either go ICV full rego (just gives me a headache reading the regs) of the club route that you went with.
              Who did you approach first - an engineer or the RTA ( in NSW )/TAC ? to start the process with an application.
              Hippy Dave


              • #22

                Have hit a stumbling block after the second inspection.
                A week latter the TAC rang me to say that the wheels that they orginally signed off on have now been rejected.
                Its been two months now doing research and putting a responce to them about possible options.
                I got the offical answer last week - NO
                Plus i now also have to add some form of dampening - also orginally signed off on.

                The problem with the the wheels is that apart from being split rims, you also need double safety humps
                I have managed to source new 22.5 x 7.5 alloys with double safety humps out of China for the rear (wheel used in Europe) with only a minor change to the hubs (larger landing required).

                The front wheels though are a major issue with the 1942 chevy hubs.
                There are later non split chevy rims that i could use out of the states (19.5 x 6 or 6.75) but they don't come with a double safety hump.
                TAC have stated i cant modify the wheel to genertate the second hump or create a wheel spacer/adaptor to change the stud pattern.

                Apprecaite if any one reading this has some suggestions

                As for the build I have started painting parts , modified the 31 chevy headlights, covered the seats,......minor stuff while i sort the wheels out.

                The problem with a ICV is that you may require a late model engine or run on gas to comply. Transport here think that i have gone to far with the chassis to have just a blue plate.

                Suggestions on starting
                Get the NSW hot rod rule book and study - the QLD one i've found out has headen text/rules
                Seek out a club that has guys/girls that have build and finished rods, not just bought them


                • #23
                  Mate.... I am sure you are really pissed off with the red tape, especially after all your careful planning.

                  Thanks for the pointers in regards to starting suggestions.... I can see the problems you are having means that the planning stage is crucial especially in NSW.

                  Best of luck. Just picture yourself rolling down the blacktop for that first blast.



                  • #24
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ID:	573581Hey 42blacktruck,

                    I remembered your kool build.......

                    Saw this bitchin truck at Sydney show last weekend. Was in a display from the "Beatnix" club. Appears to have full NSW rego.

                    Check out the massive truck rims...

                    Good luck. how is your completion going?? would love to see any more updated photos.

                    Hippy Dave


                    • #25

                      Its taken a long time to sort the wheel drama out so that i comply with the TAC requirements
                      Front wheels will be 18 x 8 Toyota Tundra - Steel with double saftey humps
                      Intention is to make a 18" moon disk to hide the rim
                      Rear wheels specially made - 22.5 x 7.5 - alloy with double safety humps
                      Hubs front and rear have to be modified
                      Smaller PCD on teh front
                      Longer hub landing and stud length on the rear

                      All except the cab shell now painted - i'm not the best painter so its taken longer then expected
                      Seats finished
                      Modifications completed to the front drum backing plates ready to take the cycle guard mounts

                      Exhaust, park brake, battery box all completed
                      Had a go at metal carving my own gear knob - a cross between King Kong and Darth Vaider

                      I will attached a few sets of photos
                      Attached Files


                      • #26
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                        • #27
                          It would have been a better look with the orginal wheels but thats Queensland for you.
                          At the end of the day it should be safer vehicle.
                          Attached Files


                          • #28
                            Good grief! You mean that you are going to have safe wheels! Over here in the States it is a sure sign of caring if you live or die [and other innocent folks live or die] to comply with anything that smacks of 'safe'. You mention a BATTERY BOX!.....again, here the method is, all to frequently, to tie the battery down with one of your 'ol lady's panty hose or, if it can be found on the road, a real 'trucker' rubber bungee cord. And what the cat hair is this reference to 'parking brake'? Just never park the machine at the top of a hill. That simplifies the issue clear down to not having to think or do anything. You got lace on your shorts? Twenty year old brake parts from a junk yard have a PROVEN history of working just fine, but you are spending genuine money to replace them!? Incredible. New parts have zero experience in the 'real world' and cannot be trusted. Remember: "Rusted can be Trusted". Try to remember that. Now in all seriousness: I love that build! Thanks for the pictures. Keep us up-dated!


                            • #29
                              If I lived in the states I would have been driving it for 6 months already.
                              Guards, exhaust, interior, wheels, paint all must be present according to the rules that have been in place here for nearly 20 years without review.
                              The worst is still to come, I have to get the original chevy brake system re certified. A million trucks isn't good enough.
                              Not a day goes by I wish I wasn't building it in the states


                              • #30
                                Ya, I have heard that the laws and directives down under are way past reasonable. That, it seems to me, is what happens when a government drives something to its ridiculous extreme. On the other hand: There is the the opposite extreme which is far too often exhibited, here in the U S of A in some builds. No sun visors, no high beam indicator, no emergency brake, crap exhaust and holes in the firewall and belly pan, junky and or stupidly conceived steering/suspension components with kindergarten engineering [anything 'different is 'cool'], seriously dangerous fuel systems and etc. and etc.. That may be the other end of the spectrum. Unfortunately, in as much as too many folks cannot seem to use common sense construction [or even take 10 minutes to find valid info regarding the proper way to construct some detail of the build] , we will be seeing the same over-regulation here; its a sure thing. OK, if the completed junk-bin machine was to be used as 'lawn art' there would be no problems. But too many actually drive them.