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  • 42 Chevy

    First trial fit of the cab to the chassis
    Chassis is stepped down 310mm (12")
    Cab channelled 180mm (7 1/2")
    Orginal semi ellipical front
    Rear four link (top link - 1/4" ellipical)

  • #2
    42Blacktruck

    I may eventually work out how to post a photo
    Attached Files

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    • #3
      That thing looks bad ass with the duallies on it!

      Comment


      • #4
        I just fell in love!!

        them big tars is crazy bad.

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        • #5
          Those front rims [5 lug] sorta look like the ones on my 47 Studebaker 1-1/2 ton. Would you post some pics showing how you articulated the rear axle using the semi elliptical half springs. I think I see a 'pivot' on the frame side forward of the rear tire.

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          • #6
            Hopefully attached is the layout drawing that shows the quarter elliptical/four link setup.
            The lower link if from a Toyota Landcruiser wagon lower control arm (orginal pivot pin on the Toyota in M18 bolt - orginal bushing now drilled out to 3/4")
            The drawing was used in the approval to build process that is used here in Australia.
            Front rims are seen on a lot of 1930/40 trucks
            Front tyre size is 7.00 - 20
            Rear tyres are 8.25 -20
            Diff is an Eaton 2 speed that would have orginally been on a Beford truck here
            Orginal spring landing on the diff was reused as the pickup point for the spring interface.
            Attached Files

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by 42blacktruck View Post
              Hopefully attached is the layout drawing that shows the quarter elliptical/four link setup.
              The lower link if from a Toyota Landcruiser wagon lower control arm (orginal pivot pin on the Toyota in M18 bolt - orginal bushing now drilled out to 3/4")
              The drawing was used in the approval to build process that is used here in Australia.
              Front rims are seen on a lot of 1930/40 trucks
              Front tyre size is 7.00 - 20
              Rear tyres are 8.25 -20
              Diff is an Eaton 2 speed that would have orginally been on a Beford truck here
              Orginal spring landing on the diff was reused as the pickup point for the spring interface.
              Been collecting a lot of 46. 47, 48 Studebaker M series 1-1/2 ton truck stuff. Recently given a 56 Studebaker 2R 1-1/2 ton that has a two speed axle and good running V8 engine . When I saw your build it was suddenly clear what has been lurking in my mind that I, until then, was unable to fully visualize!

              That is why I'm seriously interested in your rear axle suspension. Thanks for the super CAD drawing. That of course shocked me. It seems, by my unbiased observation, that best 95% of us Yankee Rat builders can do is some crooked soapstone lines on the shop floor! You put the lion's share of us to shame!

              The front suspension arraignment is also of interest to me. Can you be so kind as to post pics or whatever of your intent? In my musings I am thinking of narrowing the front track by chopping the beam axle. As the truck's rear axles are usually not reduced in diameter after the splines it would be easy to cut them and re-spline and narrow the width if that became desirable.

              I have a nice 'survivor' 47 M16 Studebaker truck [pic attached] that has a new set of 7.00 X 20 tires. That is approx. correct for the old girl and are the cheapest size available in a bias 20 truck tire. The difference between 7.00 and the 8.25 that you have at the rear is negligible as far as outside diameter and its effect on final ratio. My stock M16 does an actual 42 MPH at 3200 RPM. Using the two speed axle out of the 56 would improve the top end but I bet I can still take off from a dead stop in 3rd gear and most folks would think I used low gear. What are your thoughts on how best to get a approx, 60-65 MPH cruzing speed? I can be happy with 45 MPH top speed because it would, like my 47 Studebaker, be a mostly 'around town'
              machine.
              Attached Files

              Comment


              • #8
                Don't worry there have still been pleanty of layouts drawn on the floor and plenty of proto type parts that have ended up in the bin.

                The front supension is stock (apart from the steering box position), with the first cut in the chassis just past the spring hanger. I did want to run a quarter elliptical front but i was facing an uphill battle from regulators that were convinced i couldnt design it without bump steer issues.


                Attached photo of the front suspension/chassis.
                Attached Files

                Comment


                • #9
                  Thank you for the pictures; they are helpful. As I see more and more of your build it gets harder and harder get the idea, of me doing the same with the 56 Studebaker 1-1/2 ton, out of my head.

                  We don't have any 'regulators' up here and that is probably why a phrase like "bump Steer" doesn't get used much; let alone akerman effect and scrub radius!. Regulators , in my humble opinion, tend to over-regulate if given time and opportunity but it is true that such will happen over here if too much junk hits the streets.

                  What happens if you get your drawings approved and at some point get it accepted for the street and you then do a 'second' alteration like quarter elliptic springs up front? Your build looks good like it is. Just wondering.

                  Please keep us updated.

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                  • #10
                    For this form of registration that we have opted for...
                    After application to build approval you have to pass three inspections....
                    1. Chassis complete (including steering, supension, fuel and brakes)
                    Inspectors are looking at welds etc
                    Because there have been some accisdents recently, brakes are high in the list with new laws comming into place (inclusion of brake tests)
                    The chassis has passed the first inspecion
                    2. All sheet metal fitted to the car including interior
                    Basically the car finished
                    Includes door cards, bonnets etc (door cards must be fitted in Aust)
                    3. Car finished
                    You are able to make changes through the inspection process as problems unfold but once the car passes its last inspection any subsequent changes woiuld require a repeat of the process (engine, brakes,etc)
                    All sheet metal at car finish also has to remain, so here you register with the minimum, you can add the bonnet later without a problem.
                    The car when complete is given a bulid number (year of make + my Australian Street rod member No.) that forever ties the builder to the car.

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                    • #11
                      Hey mate,
                      Just wondering if you've got any further with your build.
                      I'm in melb and planning my build and love the look of your truck, especially the massive dual rears

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                      • #12
                        I have been going to start a tread in the build section but have never got around too it


                        Car is nealy finished
                        Getting ready for second inspection
                        Guards (wish i lived in the states and didn't need them), battery box, park brake linkage, exhaust, tailights, paint, and the small infill sheet metal sections below the floor as a result of the channel is all that remains
                        Attached Files

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                        • #13
                          Some general info

                          Headlights - 31 chev
                          Front indicators - 41 chev
                          Speedo - 1960 land rover
                          Smiths oil press/temp - 63 MGB
                          Seats - 65 toyota corolla
                          fuel tank - old compressor
                          Radiator - 60 toyota landcruiser
                          Muffers - mid 90 triumph bonneville
                          Tank is finished colour (cab and bonnet will also be the flat green)
                          Attached Files

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Looks awesome.
                            You running just guards, or running boards as well?

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                            • #15
                              Don't know how I missed this one , really great looking and well built ride . I ask this question for information only , it is not meant as criticism in any way shape or form . With all the regulations you have had to deal with I would assume your scrub line was one of them . It looks like the bottom of your cab is the lowest point of the vehicle and meets the scrub line requirements . How come you didn't make the frame under the cab the same distance from the ground as the cab . That would have given you less of a channel and some more head room and maybe allowed you to have a more comfortable seating height .

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