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New life for the '30 Chevy

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  • Thanks JWD! finally getting to spend some more time on it. My '58 was getting jealous so I had to give it some attention LOL.That- in the form of swapping out the old split back bench for some brand new Procar low back buckets!
    Best to ya!
    https://www.killbillet.com/forum/30s...the-30-chevyMy 1930 Chevy truck build link:

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    • Looking good!

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      • Originally posted by Gene View Post
        Looking good!
        Thanks Gene! I'm hoping to get as much done as possible before the cold weather jumps in and intimidates me! LOL
        https://www.killbillet.com/forum/30s...the-30-chevyMy 1930 Chevy truck build link:

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        • Nice Work!

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          • Originally posted by Couper View Post
            Nice Work!
            Thanks Couper! Gotta keep pushing before it's time to hibernate! LOL!
            https://www.killbillet.com/forum/30s...the-30-chevyMy 1930 Chevy truck build link:

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            • Boxing in of the remaining rear frame portion of the truck has pretty much come to an end. Since I have been jumping around like a doctor seeing 5 patients at one time, it’s nice to scratch this one off the list.

              After welding up the spring hangers some time back it turned out that I’d gotten them a smidgen too tight to the frame for the shackle bolts go in and be nutted up. (Coulda trimmed bolt and nut a tad but couldn't go there.) Quick work with a hole-saw to the frame provided a simple solution. Fast forward to boxing in the frame there, a small piece of 1 ½” pipe and one more party with the hole-saw made the access permanent through the boxed in frame- just to the right/out of the pic of course. (Of course that means I’ll never have to replace those bushings now…. Ha.)

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              Now I gotta start thinking about gas tank size and placement. Was thinking about right behind the cab between the frame rails with a new 17 gallon unit but am now leaning toward a bit bigger tank, putting between the rear axle and end of the frame. The truck frame, bed frame, and receiver hitch should be a decent buffer from going "Pinto" on a bad day.
              https://www.killbillet.com/forum/30s...the-30-chevyMy 1930 Chevy truck build link:

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              • I like big fuel tanks. The 54 Dodge pickup I built years ago had a 26 or 30 gal tank behind the rear axle. It only had the rear bumper and a piece of tin "protecting" it, even had a rear fill behind the license plate!

                There were a lot of vehicles with the fuel tank hanging behind the rear axle, the Pinto got a bum wrap. It issue with the Pinto was the tank was thin (thinner then normal) sheet metal, and was only a couple inches from the rear axle. On a hard impact, the thin tank was pushed into the rear axle and the upper axle link ruptured the tank. The only fires were when the rear axle was hot or a spark occurred between the tank and the hot axle. The fix from Ford was to install a piece of hard plastic between the rear axle and the fuel tank. The hard plastic caused the thin tank to bend more, and eliminated the chance of a spark, or the hot rear axle from causing the fire.

                I doubt the rear frame on your truck is going to bend as far as the pinto unibody did on rear impact. \

                In recent years, Chrysler had a recall on 20 years worth of Grand Cherokees because 6 or 7 Jeeps over a 20 year life span had a fire on rear impact. The fix for Chrysler was to install a rear trailer hitch to add more protection to the tank.

                Its good to see you working on the old Chevy again. Gene

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                • Gene that's some interesting detail on why and how they fixed that problem. Figures it was something simple. I'm not concerned a bit about putting mine in the back but it's always kinda fun to poke at the Pinto. LOL

                  I'm with you on the bigger tanks. Every truck I've owned since the late 70's has had at least 20 gallons (my '77 having dual tanks) with the exception of my '58. It has a Ford truck auxiliary tank in the rear and in between the frame rails but it's only around the 17 gallon mark I think. With an average of 12 MPG it's not too bad but I do like having the choice of where I fuel up at. I'm hoping/planning on the '30 making some long distance trips so a bigger tank is always nice- especially running out through parts of the country where stations can be scarce.

                  https://www.killbillet.com/forum/30s...the-30-chevyMy 1930 Chevy truck build link:

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                  • I like to build things around future serviceability... Its not much harder to bolt something rather than weld stuff like that up..
                    nice!
                    My build thread:
                    https://www.killbillet.com/forum/20s...at-is-it/page7

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                    • Originally posted by Burnin#2 View Post
                      I like to build things around future serviceability... Its not much harder to bolt something rather than weld stuff like that up..
                      nice!
                      Thanks much. To me being unique is where it's at. I love what we are doing.
                      https://www.killbillet.com/forum/30s...the-30-chevyMy 1930 Chevy truck build link:

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                      • Well, some time has run by and life has pressed the pause button (not the stop button) on the '30. Indeed I have been working through the air system design (including comparing cost/functionality of parts) and actually started modifying the bag mount brackets on one side. Hope to get flying back on this very soon.

                        What has been taking the lion's share of "fun" work was bucket seats and carpet in my '58. That was chased by procurement of a 6 x 12 enclosed trailer that needed lots of work. Almost done with that so I hope to be getting back on the '30 very soon!
                        https://www.killbillet.com/forum/30s...the-30-chevyMy 1930 Chevy truck build link:

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                        • I’ve thoroughly enjoyed the last couple of days working on the truck! My attention has been on the helper bags in the back…

                          Bringing things back up to speed, the new rear leaf springs are rated at 1,080# each (Jeep Wrangler) which were the identical dimensional match to the original ’30 springs. This should give a nice ride empty (or lightly loaded) but I need sufficient suspension with a loaded trailer, thus the helper bags.

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                          I wanted the bags directly over the upper axle spring plates (perfect location for load and bag clearance between the frame rail and the tire)-but how to solid mount the bag brackets and still be able to remove the u-bolts?…

                          Brain-storming this with a close friend a few months ago (he lives about 3 hours away) he came up with the idea of putting a piece of pipe over the u-bolts to have future access to remove the nuts. Sounded like a good idea- all I had to do is come up with the details. LOL

                          In the meantime, cruising eBay provided the upper and lower bag brackets for $45 which was worth it to me. The lower bracket was the kind that welds to the top of the axle tube (didn’t think all that through before purchasing) so I sliced those” legs” off and tacked the now flat bracket on top of 2 pieces pipe, which fit over the outside u-bolt threads and nuts.

                          I then flipped it over and cut out the socket access to the nuts. Next was tacking the bottom of the pipe pieces to the upper spring pad, removing the nuts, and then welding it all out. I added a gusset to the inside just because it seemed to be the thing to do. Easy access to the lower mounting bolt makes for a no-stress removal if I need to get to the u-bolts (like when I get around to setting the pinion angle).

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                          The upper brackets needed to be shaved about 1/2" to line up with the bottom.

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                          Really happy with how this turned out. I think the placement, while not perfectly centered over the spring, is solid enough to not pose a problem- the proof will be in the puddin'. To me it looks pretty cool. LOL.

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                          Last edited by Old Stuff; 03-03-2021, 08:03 PM. Reason: spelling corrections LOL
                          https://www.killbillet.com/forum/30s...the-30-chevyMy 1930 Chevy truck build link:

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                          • Just uploaded the pics again! I think they will stay this time! LOL
                            https://www.killbillet.com/forum/30s...the-30-chevyMy 1930 Chevy truck build link:

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                            • Thank you for reposting the pictures. I think it looks good, should ride pretty good and be able to tow the trailer. Gene

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                              • Originally posted by Gene View Post
                                Thank you for reposting the pictures. I think it looks good, should ride pretty good and be able to tow the trailer. Gene
                                thanks Gene. Probably will work on finishing up the rear end next- a missing line to the driver wheel cylinder, a brake job, mounting the e-brake lines to the frame, and shocks. It would be very nice to have a whole "section" completed. (Subject to change LOL)
                                https://www.killbillet.com/forum/30s...the-30-chevyMy 1930 Chevy truck build link:

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