Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

New life for the '30 Chevy

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #91
    Fast forward on the calendar- My nephew brought over a used rear deck lid for his tuner car that will receive a custom spoiler. (He runs this on a road course fairly often.) I welded up numerous holes in it and after all was said and done, he gave me the single arm wiper motor and arm that was on it. Boy this thing was very compact. Hey- the ’30 came with a single arm wiper.... Hmmmm…….

    Punching a hole for the grommet and arm penetration point, I then had to modify the 3/4” inside console tubing for clearance. With that done I got the mounting holes drilled (low left and right) and got the spacing out where needed utilizing some plastic spacers that I’ve had for literally over 30 years. THAT is why we don’t throw anything away! For the upper mounting point, I had to cut/reposition/re-weld the tab that was secured to the top 1"” framing tube .

    Click image for larger version  Name:	W-1.JPG Views:	0 Size:	121.3 KB ID:	727485Click image for larger version  Name:	W-2.JPG Views:	0 Size:	139.5 KB ID:	727486Click image for larger version  Name:	W-3.JPG Views:	0 Size:	147.6 KB ID:	727489
    Click image for larger version  Name:	W-4.JPG Views:	0 Size:	92.5 KB ID:	727488Click image for larger version  Name:	W-5.JPG Views:	0 Size:	88.1 KB ID:	727487

    I then spent some time reworking the original arm itself to get the angles just right. Was then time to hook up some temp power and put it to the test! The 11”" blade sits at the top of the windshield (that I don’t have yet) and pivots down past vertical well enough to let me see the full road ahead. Bottom line is that I couldn't be happier. And yes, there happens to be room to duplicate (or mirror) the install of another one just like it on the passenger side without overlapping. My wife asked about that and I resisted the thought of mentioning using a squeegee.... LMAO.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	W-6.JPG Views:	0 Size:	101.7 KB ID:	727490Click image for larger version  Name:	W-7.JPG Views:	0 Size:	90.3 KB ID:	727491

    Without a doubt I didn't have to take the time to post the "first run" wiper setup but hey- it was part of of build. I know I'm not alone when it comes to switching horses in mid stream. LOL
    Last edited by Old Stuff; 07-21-2020, 08:11 AM.
    https://www.killbillet.com/forum/30s...the-30-chevyMy 1930 Chevy truck build link:

    Comment


    • #92
      Hey Old Stuff that looks great. What kinda "tuner car" did that come off of?

      Comment


      • #93
        Originally posted by JWD View Post
        Hey Old Stuff that looks great. What kinda "tuner car" did that come off of?
        Thanks JWD. Getting closer one day at a time! LOL

        It's an '04 Nissan 350Z. I don't remember seeing a wiper on the current rear deck but don't know if it's been previously removed or is part of a package option?

        While I am well versed in shutting off a wiper motor at the stop position- without an auto-return, I'll be doing a bit of research on this one. The 3 wires coming out of the motor are blue, orange, and black. When blue goes to hot and black goes to ground it works smooth as glass on low speed and quiet as a church mouse. Wondering if the orange was high speed (and with the black still hooked to ground) I touched it to the positive side and sparks jumped. Makes me think that is also a ground- and maybe has hope of returning to the stop position when turned off if wired correctly? (My first go-round with a "newer" wiper motor. I get to learn something new.
        Last edited by Old Stuff; 07-21-2020, 07:01 PM. Reason: wording clarification
        https://www.killbillet.com/forum/30s...the-30-chevyMy 1930 Chevy truck build link:

        Comment


        • #94
          Sure, now I got to listen to Jam up & Jelly type in my head all night! Thanks a lot! LOL!

          I have to ask, do those wiper blades both run in the same direction, or do they come towards each other when they run? Maybe it doesn't matter on a 30 Chevy, but the old Mopars I'm always working on all have to sweep towards each other, or they just look wrong to me. Nearly all the modern stuff sweeps in the same direction.

          It looks to me like you just need to shorten the wiper pivots and the whole thing will move closer to the the wiper side of the console. Either that, or can you move the wiper motor onto the other side of the brackets so its on the same side as the pivots that go through the console? That would gain you extra clearance of the thickness of the wiper motor, would that be enough to clear the gauges?

          Figuring out wipers is fun, about the time you think you have it figured out, you discover everything is backwards, so you change it all around, and then it doesn't work at all. Gene

          Comment


          • #95
            Originally posted by Gene View Post
            Sure, now I got to listen to Jam up & Jelly type in my head all night! Thanks a lot! LOL!

            I have to ask, do those wiper blades both run in the same direction, or do they come towards each other when they run? Maybe it doesn't matter on a 30 Chevy, but the old Mopars I'm always working on all have to sweep towards each other, or they just look wrong to me. Nearly all the modern stuff sweeps in the same direction.

            It looks to me like you just need to shorten the wiper pivots and the whole thing will move closer to the the wiper side of the console. Either that, or can you move the wiper motor onto the other side of the brackets so its on the same side as the pivots that go through the console? That would gain you extra clearance of the thickness of the wiper motor, would that be enough to clear the gauges?

            Figuring out wipers is fun, about the time you think you have it figured out, you discover everything is backwards, so you change it all around, and then it doesn't work at all. Gene
            I almost choked on my coffee this morning when I read that! LMAO!!!

            The dual wiper setup from the Jetta sweeps in the same direction. What made me go with the Nissan single wiper is pure size. The dual unit is 22 and 1/2" inches wide x 6" deep for the motor, and 4" deep for the rest of the unit which is all linkage. Can't flip the motor because it would be out past the pivot mounting points as they are now. Shortening the pivots would knock off almost 1" of depth but the depth of the console is only 6" max so I'd still be loosing over half of the overhead console use because I'd also have to modify the console framing to be able to pull the whole unit "back" in the event of a motor failure because of mounting bolt placement which I can't change. Too many negatives for me on this one- though a fun exercise.

            The single that I installed from the Nissan is 9" wide x 2 and 1/8th" deep (except for one small plug that jumps out to 2 and 1/2"). No gauges in that 9" space because my air gauge and dump valve will be surface mounted there- which couldn't have worked out any better because if I ever have to change that wiper motor it will pull back a couple inches and drop straight down. Boom. Have my cake and eat it too.

            Depending on my bride's input I might end up putting another Nissan unit in on the right side, but I still wouldn't be giving up any console use.
            https://www.killbillet.com/forum/30s...the-30-chevyMy 1930 Chevy truck build link:

            Comment


            • #96
              Yep, projects tend to change directions pretty quickly. I seem to have a pretty good pile of things that have been tried then changed to something completely different.
              The sad part is the pile keeps growing, when we remember that part that didn't work on the last project, but might work on this one, we can't find the darned thing, until we don't need it any more, then there it is, in plain sight. Gene

              Comment


              • #97
                Some time back I'd mentioned that I picked up a Ford 8.8 rear end. This is my first Ford rear end to get fully acquainted with so I looked up the tag and low and behold it's not an 8.8- but a 9.75. A good surprise this time! Hope to order new axles for it this week from Dutchman Axles. My friend turned me on to them and they are good folks to talk with on the phone. Pricing plenty good. Can't wait to get the new axles and a set of bearings to start buttoning this thing back up.

                With motor and trans sitting on blocks, I've got the drive shaft/trans lined up with the input/output angles equal (but not excessive) and at 2 degrees. Seems 3 degrees is what I've heard most of the time but thinking the 2 degrees will be enough lubrication for the u-joints. Any guru input on that one way or the other would be appreciated.
                https://www.killbillet.com/forum/30s...the-30-chevyMy 1930 Chevy truck build link:

                Comment


                • #98
                  A 9 3/4" instead of an 8.8 sure would be a pleasant surprise around here. Does it still have the 5 on 4 1/2" wheel bolt pattern or the larger 5 on 5" Ford wheel bolt pattern?

                  Your 2 degree pinion angle down sounds good to me unless your planning on doing a lot of drag racing. If your angle is 2 degrees up, you may want to change that, under hard acceleration, it may rise up enough to cause a vibration. Gene

                  Comment


                  • #99
                    Thanks Gene. When looking horizontally everything is in a straight line. The parallel offset of 2 degrees comes into play when looking from the top down because the chunk is offset to the passenger side. Since this is going to be used as a "typical" 3/4 ton trailer puller with beefy leaf springs I don't think axle wrap will be an issue- but I can always add some slapper bars of some sort if I see that happening.

                    The rear end has the larger pattern, but wouldn't you know that when I pulled the axles they were shot. (Murphy's law eh?) Since I'm getting new ones, they will be drilled to fit the Chevy 5 on 4 3/4" so I can rotate the tires. Ah but now the rest of the story (I can still hear Paul Harvey's voice LOL).......

                    Originally I was wanting the Mob Steel 20" 8 hole wheels but my pocket couldn't fade the price. What I did find was that the very same style/look wheel could be had in 17" with new tires for the same out-the-door price as only 2 of the MS wheels with no shoes. Compromise was okay this time for me in order to keep the project rolling (cheesy grin emoji). The simple disc brake conversion for this particular axle was from ECI using Camaro components, which is what lead to the decision to run that bolt patter on the back as well for rotation.
                    Last edited by Old Stuff; Today, 03:54 PM. Reason: detail correction concerning price comparison.
                    https://www.killbillet.com/forum/30s...the-30-chevyMy 1930 Chevy truck build link:

                    Comment


                    • Been having some crazy amounts of fun over the last couple days building the overhead console!

                      A big portion of this fun for me is the creation part. Quite a while back I did a bunch of paper cutouts for gauges, toggle switches, indicator lights, and such. Double over a little blue tape on the back and let the shuffling begin! That in itself was an enjoyable process- seeing what I didn’t want to help show me what I did want.

                      Well, about the middle of last week I cut out the panel itself. Figured I’d decide what to do with the finish after all the holes are punched and I can do a first look at everything (mostly) installed. After transferring all the paper cutouts from the cardboard mock up to the metal panel (and then thinking some more LOL) I finalized a little over ˝ of the layout, put the center punch to work, and started drilling.

                      Holes are cut for the Water Temp (empty hole on the left), Oil pressure (temporary installed), and the Fuel and Volt gauges- both of which I don't have yet. The cluster of toggles and indicator lights (all from Summit) are for headlights, parking lights, cargo light. Also in are the green turn signal lights surrounding what will be the Speedo. The lonely wiper motor toggle which will get no indicator light... but that shouldn't be hard to figure out LOL.

                      All that then led to yet more paper cutouts of the air gauges along with the dump valve for the rear bags, and the toggle/indicator light for the air compressor- which I started moving around and still haven't made a final decision on. All of this with the intent of trying to minimize the “I wished I would’ve…” moments LOL!

                      Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_7804.JPG
Views:	8
Size:	118.8 KB
ID:	727589
                      https://www.killbillet.com/forum/30s...the-30-chevyMy 1930 Chevy truck build link:

                      Comment

                      Working...
                      X