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1930 Chevy Coupe with a twist.

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  • #46
    And I changed my mind on what transmission I want to use. Currently I have a 4 cylinder Fox Body T5 5 speed with a special bellhousing, mounted on my Saab engine. But that transmission is only rated for about 230HP. The Saab engine puts out 225HP, stock. So I have no room to grow if I wanted to put a bigger turbo on it down the road.

    So I found a different route. I found a company that makes an adapter kit to put a 6 speed Getrag transmission from a BMW M3 on the Saab engine. This transmission is good for 500+HP, so I will be fine.

    This adapter kit is probably the most money I have spent on one thing, this whole build. $1100 after the exchange rate + shipping, which hasn't been calculated yet. But it will allow me to put a beefier transmission on there, and it uses standard BMW parts. So the change will be worth it in the end.

    I should add that it isn't $1100 for just an adaptor. This kit includes the flywheel, clutch set, adaptor plate, all the hardware, and some parts for the clutch fork. It is basically supposed to be everything I need for the install.

    PMC Order by Chad Truss, on Flickr

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    • #47
      Great update, thanks for getting us all back on track on the build.

      if I may...
      On your hair pin bracket welds, I suggest going a fair amount hotter temp wider and a more deliberate slow stiching motion, and on thicker material a few good racks then burn it in with longer passes.
      if you are setting your welder to recommend settings for material thickness, keep in mind those are typically for butt weld joints with a gap a chamfer... if your peices fit tight with no gap, you need more heat, just go up a size or 2 even and try it.
      I also saw some porosity, that's most typically caused by either welding through some rust or paint, or the wind blowing your shield gas away if your not using flux core wire.
      dont be afraid of welding with high heat on a frame, if your close to blowing through you will see you puddle will get quite large b4 it happens.
      try it and experiment on some scrap, you'll see :)
      My build thread:
      https://www.killbillet.com/forum/20s...at-is-it/page7

      Comment


      • #48
        Great update, thanks for getting us all back on track on the build.

        if I may...
        On your hair pin bracket welds, I suggest going a fair amount hotter temp wider and a more deliberate slow stiching motion, and on thicker material a few good tacks then burn it in with longer passes.
        if you are setting your welder to recommend settings for material thickness, keep in mind those are typically for butt weld joints with a gap and chamfer... if your peices fit tight with no gap, you need more heat, just go up a size or 2 even and try it.
        I also saw some porosity, that's most typically caused by either welding through some rust or paint, or the wind blowing your shield gas away if your not using flux core wire.
        dont be afraid of welding with high heat on a frame, if your close to blowing through you will see you puddle will get quite large b4 it happens.
        try it and experiment on some scrap, you'll see :)
        My build thread:
        https://www.killbillet.com/forum/20s...at-is-it/page7

        Comment


        • #49
          Originally posted by Burnin#2 View Post
          Great update, thanks for getting us all back on track on the build.

          if I may...
          On your hair pin bracket welds, I suggest going a fair amount hotter temp wider and a more deliberate slow stiching motion, and on thicker material a few good racks then burn it in with longer passes.
          if you are setting your welder to recommend settings for material thickness, keep in mind those are typically for butt weld joints with a gap a chamfer... if your peices fit tight with no gap, you need more heat, just go up a size or 2 even and try it.
          I also saw some porosity, that's most typically caused by either welding through some rust or paint, or the wind blowing your shield gas away if your not using flux core wire.
          dont be afraid of welding with high heat on a frame, if your close to blowing through you will see you puddle will get quite large b4 it happens.
          try it and experiment on some scrap, you'll see :)
          Great tips. Thank you.

          I think the porosity was mainly from rust. The brackets were already tacked in place, months ago and there had been time for things to rust a little. I didn't do the best job at cleaning up the metal before I welded.

          And yes, I stick to the welder settings for the most part. I have been slowing the wire down a little more then they recommend in order to slow down and let the heat build up more, if my logic is right? But maybe I do need to try and go up a notch on the heat. I am using a 220V Hobart welder, so I have a heat knob and a wire speed knob and thats it. I am already on 6 out of 7 for heat. That is why I have been slowing the wire down a bit in the hopes it might allow me to move slower and build a little more heat.

          But again, constructive criticism on the welds is always welcome. I am learning as I go.

          Comment


          • #50
            I was able to get out in the garage for a few more hours this past weekend. The rear axle is now fully done, as far as bracket location and all the welding goes. As I get closer to getting the car done, then I'll go through the brakes and put lines on it.

            I designed those hairpin mounts in CAD. Had a friend of my burn them out of 3/8" material. Normally that hairpin mounts don't wrap all the way around the axle, I just thought it was a nice touch.

            PXL_20210815_200736325 by Chad Truss, on Flickr

            PXL_20210815_200532707 by Chad Truss, on Flickr

            PXL_20210815_210100544.MP by Chad Truss, on Flickr

            And I actually did a decent weld here. One decent weld. But seriously, I'm getting better.

            PXL_20210815_210116991 by Chad Truss, on Flickr

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            • #51
              Nice update pics. Really looking forward to seeing the progress.
              https://www.killbillet.com/forum/30s...the-30-chevyMy 1930 Chevy truck build link:

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              • #52
                As I get closer to positioning the engine in the frame and making motor mounts, I wonder how I am going to solve the intake manifold issue.

                On the B234 engine, the throttle body end of the intake manifold is on the flywheel end of the engine. This means in longitudinal, RWD position, the throttle body is basically in the firewall. I can't weld aluminum. And I am not looking forward to hacking up the intake manifold.

                I have made some Saab friends all around the world because of social media. And we all do a Whatsapp chat. I asked them if they knew anything about different manifolds, or anyone that has made one. They said to use the 2.0T manifold from an ng900. They bolt on to this head, no problems.

                I found one in a scrap yard not too far away. Went and looked, and sure enough it will fit. And the throttle body sits on the middle of the intake on this setup. So now my intake will clear the firewall.

                PXL_20210831_165926437 by Chad Truss, on Flickr

                Then I got the adapter kit to mount the BMW transmission on the Saab engine. Here is the flywheel. The strangest one I have ever seen.

                PXL_20210901_011126238 by Chad Truss, on Flickr

                PXL_20210901_011137337 by Chad Truss, on Flickr

                And here is the adapter plate itself.

                PXL_20210901_011202826 by Chad Truss, on Flickr

                Hopefully I'll get out there and work on it some more soon. Next steps are to finish grinding the primer off of the frame, reassemble the chassis, then put the motor and trans together. After that I make motor mounts.

                Comment


                • #53
                  I'm surprised there's enough of a market out there for a company to produce a Saab to BMW adapter! The flywheel looks like a flying saucer! I'll bet those pieces weren't cheap. Luv your progress! Keep it comin'.

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                  • #54
                    Originally posted by 2.3Turbo_T View Post
                    I'm surprised there's enough of a market out there for a company to produce a Saab to BMW adapter! The flywheel looks like a flying saucer! I'll bet those pieces weren't cheap. Luv your progress! Keep it comin'.
                    The company is in Poland. And apparently the Saab 4 cylinder engine family is a VERY popular swap in Europe. There are several different cars over there that can use these engines. And the Saab engines are nearly bulletproof.

                    Comment


                    • #55
                      All you need now is a lexan trans tunnel so all that can be seen!!! LOL! Love that this drive train is outside the box.
                      https://www.killbillet.com/forum/30s...the-30-chevyMy 1930 Chevy truck build link:

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                      • #56
                        Made a teeny bit of progress over the past weekend.

                        I took the T5 transmission off of the engine, mounted up the adaptor plate, and then test fit the BMW Getrag transmission. There is no flywheel or clutch in the middle because I couldn't get the pilot bearing out. I will look into that later. Because now that the transmission and engine are together I can make engine and transmission mounts.

                        As you can see in the photos, the adaptor plate has many unused holes around the bottom half. I am assuming it is because this adaptor fits like 4 or 5 different Saab engines. But the weird thing that I didn't catch until I went to go put the transmission on there is that the Saab engine has the starter on the wrong side. The bump for the starter on the transmission is on the opposite side. No huge deal though, I can grind a notch out of the bellhousing to make room for the starter snout.

                        And the pics......

                        PXL_20211009_215039758.MP by Chad Truss, on Flickr


                        PXL_20211009_215045785 by Chad Truss, on Flickr


                        PXL_20211011_120023349 by Chad Truss, on Flickr

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                        • #57
                          Official word from the people that make the adaptor is I mounted everything right. It's just that this adaptor is made for several engine and transmission combinations. So I'll have to grind out a small notch for the starting to reach into the bellhousing.

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                          • #58
                            I'm really liking your outside the box engine trans combo... looks sweet!
                            I'm not on here as often as I should be... but back to your welding, go up to the settings for thicker material. The settings pre determined on the welder will be for a butt weld with a gap. If you are welding a part onto another solid piece with a perfect tight fit, you won't get the penetration you need.
                            crank it up, don't be afraid.
                            Get it HOT.
                            practice on a scrap piece, crank it up until you burn a hole right in your test piece, this will help you get a feel for what the welder is doing.
                            ideally you want to lay a bead just on the verge of burning through, you will get to know how big of a puddle you can drag along with you before it falls through.
                            Also, get that rust out, mig hates thick rust, or the porosity is your shield gas either not high enough flow or the wind blowing it away.
                            My build thread:
                            https://www.killbillet.com/forum/20s...at-is-it/page7

                            Comment

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