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1930 Chevy Coupe with a twist.

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  • #16
    Awesome to see you back man! Thanks for the updates!


    • #17
      Tried out the smooth tire thing. I like.

      20170806_153036 by Chad Truss, on Flickr

      20170806_163252 by Chad Truss, on Flickr

      I'm going to try and find a finer grit wheel for my grinder and then see if I can get the sidewall a little smoother, but I think my first go at it went well.

      Note the top pic, the tire says INSIDE. That was my test run on the inside of the tire. Then the finished photo on the bottom is the outside of the tire.


      • #18
        I put in the 1x2 rectangular tube that spans across the bottom of the B pillars. I used a larger tube here because this is where the rear body mounts will be. I also built some of the body framework that will lead from the B pillars into the trunk. And there is a photo of my welds. I am improving.

        Here are the body frame sections.
        20170803_200135 by Chad Truss, on Flickr

        A weld.
        20170803_200142 by Chad Truss, on Flickr

        In this pic you can see the floor tube and the passenger side body frame section I just made.
        20170803_204849 by Chad Truss, on Flickr

        Potato cam pic of the drivers side.
        20170803_203205 by Chad Truss, on Flickr

        And now that I have a floor tube in across the B pillars, and the cowl is framed, it is time to join it all together! Here are a couple photos of that. The floor is not complete, but there is a body backbone from the nose back now.

        20170804_205837 by Chad Truss, on Flickr

        20170806_111441 by Chad Truss, on Flickr

        To finish the body framework, I need to tie the tops of the B pillars to the tops of the A pillars. And then I need to run a tube around the back of the cab to tie the tops of the B pillars together. Then the body is one assembly again!


        • #19
          I am going to post every little bit of progress I make. So here is another baby step.

          20170914_203911 by Chad Truss, on Flickr

          20170914_203927 by Chad Truss, on Flickr

          The transmission is officially bolted to the engine, with the throwout bearing properly adjusted and installed!!!!

          For weeks I have been f-ing around with this. The input shaft was a little too long, then the larger splined section of the input shaft was bumping into the flywheel and needed to be shortened just a bit. Then the throwout bearing assembly was a bit too long so I had to modify the adapter. And finally after all that work was done, and I was sure all my measurements were right, the damn transmission still wouldn't bolt up flush.

          I did some research online. A 3rd gen Camaro forum, and a fox body Mustang forum, both had archived threads about difficulties with installing T5 transmissions. Both forums had posts about how the clutch needs to be perfectly aligned or you will have the problem I was having. And the solution was to get the transmission in as far as you could, then have someone hop in the car and press the clutch pedal. This would release the clutch plate and then everything would fall into alignment.

          Well, how do I have someone push the clutch pedal when I don't have a car yet?

          So a friend of mine came over and showed me a trick. Put the trans in, snug the bolts by hand, and then rotate the engine half a turn. Sure enough, the bolts all had play in them because the transmission got closer to being mounted. Turned the engine another half a turn, and snugged the bolts again. And repeated this a few more times until the transmission was fully seated.

          So now that the engine and transmission are all together, I can finish up the body tubing and start on the frame.


          • #20
            Made some progress over the weekend.

            Got the tubing in around the back of the cab to tie together the tops of the B pillars.
            Got a tube over each door to tie the A pillar to the B pillar.
            And I ran a tube across the back of the passenger compartment so I could run a couple vertical tubes up to support the tube around the back of the cab.

            Then I pulled out all the temporary tubing I had in there to hold the B pillars in place.

            20170930_172338 by Chad Truss, on Flickr

            20170930_172410 by Chad Truss, on Flickr

            20170930_172423 by Chad Truss, on Flickr

            20170930_182343 by Chad Truss, on Flickr

            20170930_182356 by Chad Truss, on Flickr

            Next up, I'll set the body up on the firewall end and weld the bottom side of all the joints that I couldn't get to, and finish the floor tubes. After that, I build a chassis.


            • #21
              Just a wee bit more progress.

              I got the tube over the drivers door in. And welded in the tube across the A pillars.

              20171125_141833 by Chad Truss, on Flickr

              Then I cut the doors out, turned the body up on the firewall end, and welded up the bottom sides of all the joints I couldn't get to when the car was flat on the ground.

              20171126_110750 by Chad Truss, on Flickr

              I also put in tubes along where the door sills would be (not pictured).

              This means the body is all done for now. It is as completely framed up as I can make it right now, and is ready to go on a frame. I just need to make that frame.

              For the frame I will be using 1/8" wall rectangular steel tubing. I am debating the size though. Originally I was going to use 2x4 tubing because that is what everyone else that builds these uses. But then I realized that everyone else puts big V8's in their cars. Maybe I can get away with something a little smaller. So I might do 2x3 tubing. There is also 1-1/2x3, but that might be too small.

              I have my frame plans, and I have looked up some other DIY frame projects. I am ready to build this. I just need to select that material.


              • #22
                Next thing to build is the chassis. I was doing some calculations to figure out about how much the raw materials for the chassis would cost, came up with about $250-$300 in steel.

                Then a friend of mine posted up a 1930 Model A frame for sale for the same $300. Normally I would say no because those old frames are just C channel, not square tube. They are not strong enough for todays horsepower, or highway speeds. BUT this frame has been professionally boxed in by a welding shop in Rogers. So the frame is all reinforced and ready to go. So I pulled the trigger.

                20171217_133512 by Chad Truss, on Flickr

                Since this is a genuine Ford Model A frame, I can shop at any store that sells Model A suspension parts. I don't have to buy a suspension kit and lay it out. So I'll get a dropped Model A front spring, and a 4" dropped axle for the front. The back I will probably have to z the frame, but I might just use that bar across the back and run one spring back there too. Old Skool.

                We will see.

                And if the frame seems short, it is. The frame only sticks a few inches out in front of the front axle, and that rear crossmember with the hump is inline with the rear axle. The frame doesn't go any further back than the rear axle centerline.


                • #23
                  I had a free hour over the weekend to work on the hot rod, so I made a teeny tiny bit of progress.

                  I drilled and tapped three bosses in the side of the block so I could bolt up a motor mount. Then I made a plate. The plate is 1/8" thick. I am having second thoughts about that. I might make the plate again out of 3/16" plate.

                  20180318_151914 by Chad Truss, on Flickr

                  20180318_151925 by Chad Truss, on Flickr


                  • #24

                    And finally, once I got a good look at how high the frame will sit, even though it is lowered quite a bit in the front, I decided to channel the body. Originally I welded in the floor framework of the body so that it sat on the frame, like it would have when it was built. Well, now seeing how high up the frame is I cut the floor tubes out and put in new ones that are 3 " higher up. So now the body will sit down over the frame by 3".

                    New floor tubes.
                    20180429_190614 by Chad Truss, on Flickr

                    This photo shows one of the cross tubes where the floor used to be. The tubes entering the frame from the sides are for the new higher floor.
                    20180429_180947 by Chad Truss, on Flickr

                    From the side. The tube would sit on the frame, body would hang down over the sides.
                    20180429_181006 by Chad Truss, on Flickr


                    • #25
                      Got a great deal on a steering wheel.

                      20180507_111056 by Chad Truss, on Flickr


                      • #26
                        Small update.

                        Got started on the rear frame Z. I am doing a 3" Z. Where I cut the frame it is 3" tall, so I am basically just moving the rear portion up one frame height. Here is how far I got. I have the step up sections done on both sides, now I need to weld the rear portion of the frame back on and add a gusset to the bottom that will kinda match what I did on the top there.

                        20180609_144254 by Chad Truss, on Flickr

                        20180609_162343 by Chad Truss, on Flickr

                        20180609_162338 by Chad Truss, on Flickr

                        I got the Model A Super Glide spring and Super Bell I Beam drop axle for the front suspension. But something isn't working right with the way the kingpins are installed now that I have different parts. Everything should work, but something isn't right.

                        Good thing Back to the 50's is next weekend, because the hot rod places I am buying parts from are coming to me basically. So I can bring my parts in and find out what is wrong, and then buy the right stuff right then and there.


                        • #27
                          Finally had a chance to get out in the garage and make a little bit of progress.

                          The front suspension is now completely reassembled with the upgraded parts I bought. The first time I built the front suspension, I used a T Bucket style tube axle, and smaller spring thinking that it would be better since I am not using a V8. Turns out that suspension is really designed for suicide mount instead of under the frame, traditional style, like I am doing. So I sent the parts back and got a Super Bell I-Beam front axle and Model A spring.

                          20180901_151329 by Chad Truss, on Flickr

                          20180901_151342 by Chad Truss, on Flickr

                          Then I get the back part of the frame tacked back on. I need to go back and do final welding and put lower gussets on though.

                          20180901_170034 by Chad Truss, on Flickr

                          And then since the chassis was all back together, I rolled the rear axle under it to see how it would sit.

                          20180901_172223 by Chad Truss, on Flickr

                          20180901_172236 by Chad Truss, on Flickr

                          20180901_172252 by Chad Truss, on Flickr

                          Yes, my garage is filthy. It is impossible to keep the floor clean. The next garage is super close and the proximity of the two buildings creates this wind vortex in my driveway. Everything in my driveway gets blown into my garage.


                          • #28
                            Yeah, the hairpins are on either side and attach the axle to the frame. The panhard bar, or radius rod (a term I read somewhere, I'm more familiar with the term panhard bar), will be used to stop side to side movement.

                            UPDATE: Finally after this project has stalled out for a year, I got out in the shop and made some progress. I put some more work into the 3" rear frame Z.

                            Top portion of the Z. Welds ground smooth.

                            And got started on the bottom gussets, and put a fish plate on there as well.


                            My welds look like complete ****.
                            And I can't get img links to work, so you get to click on links.


                            • #29
                              I'm in a group on Facebook that is all about swapping Saab engines into other cars. In this group there was a discussion about RWD setups.

                              So I bought that custom bellhousing, had a clutch disc made, and bought a special pilot bearing, so the T5 from a 4cyl fox body Mustang would fit the Saab engine. The one thing I was a little disappointed with about this setup is the 4cyl T5 transmission I am using is supposedly only rated for like 250 ft/lbs of torque. This means I can't upgrade the motor much, I am already at the top end of what the transmission can handle.

                              Well, in this RWD discussion I found a new option that I might switch to.

                              There is a company that makes a complete kit that includes an adaptor, flywheel, and clutch kit, so you can put a ZF5 from an E46 BMW on the back of the Saab engine. This transmission can handle much more power than what I currently have, so I can make engine upgrades later.

                              So when I get back to work full time, and get closer to putting the engine in the chassis, I'll have to check this kit out.


                              • #30
                                I have been struggling to weld well, so I had a friend come over and work with me on welding, with my welder.

                                I have been playing with heat and speed. I have been adjusting the gas. But no matter what I do, I can't get a smooth weld. It spatters and pops more than it should.

                                My friend showed me how the settings change things, in real time. Adjusting wire speed as we welded. tried different gas settings to make sure there was a proper shield. But no matter what we did, there was still too much spatter and there were holes in the weld.

                                Then he asked me how old the wire was, because the wire can rust and cause the problems we are dealing with. The wire is 3 years old, and has been sitting in a garage with some water leaks, so it's not the driest place. He said that was my problem. I need new wire.

                                When I got the welder 3 years ago, I just got a big spool, I didn't even consider the fact that it would rust. So from here I'll buy smaller spools and see if this fixes my problems.