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  1. #1

    Default Vector's 1939 Chevy pickup build

    Been putting this off for a while, but finally figured out how to get this and one other build done in short order. I was talking with a few other car buddies, and we all noticed that it's always funner to work on somebody elses stuff, help organize other peoples stuff, and wrench on stuff that isn't yours. Something about piddling with other peoples stuff that is relaxing and fun, and working on your own can sometimes be stressful and just drags on and on... and on....

    That same kind of thing explains how sometimes you find yourself at a buddies house working on his plumbing, without even a thought about it, and you'd be disgusted at home under the same situation and tell your wife to just call a plumber because you don't want to deal with it.

    SOOOOooo, we decided the best way to get a few cars built in short order was to all work together and help build each others cars. When you're frustrated and not getting much done, the other dudes get you motivated. And when you've got guys helping and busting ass in your shop, ON YOUR STUFF, you better pick up the pace or lose your help!!! We are giving ourselves until Fathers day to basically have 2 new cars built and drive them to the local show.

    Car for this build. My car (pickup actually), 1939 Chevy.

    Donor vehicle for drivetrain, my 1978 Dodge Rat van. We cut the top off, did some metal work, tossed in some TIKI Torches and drove around town all last summer. I'm gonna miss that van. 360 engine, and what looks like an 8.25 rear end.

    According to our main engine guy, he's never had to pull an engine that was any more complicated and wedged, than in this van. We ended up cutting out the cross member and torching off the tie-rods to get it out. I'd love to know what shop rate is on an engine swap for that van... ...lol...

    Donor,


    The truck we started with. (home to two live mice, now residing in my shop-vac)


    Engine and trans are out... CRIPES!!!


    Cab is off and ready to be cut.

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    Vaporizer Review
    Last edited by Vectorsolid; 03-08-2011 at 10:56 PM.



  2. #2

    Default

    First mock up: 360 engine, 727 trans, 9.25 rear end.


    At 4" ride height, before top chop.

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    Scion Hako Coupe
    Last edited by Vectorsolid; 03-08-2011 at 10:56 PM.

  3. #3

    Default

    Before top chop.


    After top chop: (5" chop)


    rear window. It's all squared up. roof is just pushed forward.



    Mock up after top chop: It's not a dually, just rolling tires up along side, looking for the right set on the back. The tall tires won out at 31.5" tall.

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    Last edited by Vectorsolid; 03-08-2011 at 10:56 PM.

  4. #4

    Default

    My bud is on his way out of town for about 4 days, so the build is on hold until he gets back. Give me time to iron out how I want to go about finishing the roof.

    Waiting on 175# springs and perches, wheels and tires 235/85-16 rears, just short of 32" tall. I'm of the opinion that taller tires will make the truck look more slammed.

    Gonna pop in a posi and 4.56 gears to give it some zoot for those tall tires.

    Planning on 4" ride height. Going to build it at 6" at the front and let it settle to 4". Going to build the rear at 4" let it settle to 2" and use air shocks to level the chassis. 3 link rear suspension of my design. Standard suicide front axle, drop 6". I think a bigger drop shows off more of the radiator. No other particular reason for the 6".

    Going to fab a quick frame out of 2x4 lumber before we cut steel. I think it's going to save time.

    Our initial guess on the length of the box for the truck is about 32"-34" long.

    I'd like to see the cab done, frame mostly comleted and suspension mounted before next weekend is over. We'll see.
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    Subaru ef engine
    Last edited by Vectorsolid; 03-08-2011 at 10:56 PM.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Farm Livin-N Central AR
    Posts
    1,106

    Default

    Like your work, and the team approach is excellent.. Trying to get motivated out in the shop alone is my biggest drawback..

    Quote Originally Posted by Vectorsolid View Post
    4.56 gears to give it some zoot for those tall tires.

    .
    I'm no fan of deep gears in a light street car, especially running a torque motor.. I had 3.73 possi in a 455 Pontiac powered T roadster that I replaced with 2.56 open gears--(kinda by accident). The T was traction limited before, and still is, but the crusing is SO much better now. Somehow, both tires still light up under a launch. Skinny tires, buncha motor--possi is not needed??

    Thanks for showing your work. 'preciate the show..

    PA41

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Olalla, WA
    Posts
    263

    Default

    Very cool. See how you like the 4.56's, I'd like to see what you think.

    I ended up going with 3:55's and a 30" tire with my 4 speed OD auto, after much consideration of 4:10's, 4:30's, etc., etc...

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    london , kentucky
    Posts
    59

    Default 1939 chevy truck

    your truck looks like a 1941 chevy truck. will you sale the windshield frame , headlight buckets , windshield crank out of it?thanks email-rmalanans13@aol.com

  8. #8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 1946chevytruck View Post
    your truck looks like a 1941 chevy truck. will you sale the windshield frame , headlight buckets , windshield crank out of it?thanks email-rmalanans13@aol.com
    I'd probably sell ya the buckets, the rest I'm gonna need. :o) Drop me a PM on the buckets.
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    Last edited by Vectorsolid; 03-08-2011 at 10:58 PM.

  9. #9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by YoungBlood View Post
    Very cool. See how you like the 4.56's, I'd like to see what you think.

    I ended up going with 3:55's and a 30" tire with my 4 speed OD auto, after much consideration of 4:10's, 4:30's, etc., etc...
    Rear end.

    Whether it's a good idea or not, I decided to go with 4.88 gears. 99% of it's life will be spent accelerating from 0-45 around town. And we have some 1/8th mile drag racing opportunity's just 70 miles from here. SOOoooo. Ordered the following from Randys ring and pinion.

    1) Yukon 4.88 ring and pinion
    2) Yukon master overhaul kit
    3) True-Trac limited slip differential

    Also, the rear tires are 32.3" tall, so it's not that unreasonable, based on useage. :D

    Tires.
    I have a local Cooper dealer that really tries hard for me, so I really wanted to find something in the Cooper line that would work for me. And I didn't want to blow $250 a tire on some Coker stuff that I already know good and well I'm going to smoke to baldness in under 100 miles. So, I went with the Cooper Super Road Service tires. I find the look kind of old school, maybe some dimple wall thing going on there.

    Front: 7.00-15, 30.4" diameter, 33 pounds
    Rear: 7.50-16, 32.3" diameter, 45 pounds


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    Last edited by Vectorsolid; 03-08-2011 at 10:58 PM.

  10. #10

    Default

    Worked on the chop today, Getting very close to some final welding. I was having trouble getting the corners on the back to line up, until I gave up on trying to also get the rear window to line up at the same time. Left the rear window off about 1/2" per side, fit pretty well. We'll come back in and fix that after the rest is done. I made a gizmo to hold the top up in the middle, so all 4 pieces are supported when you cut it. The old cardboard box thing wasn't cutting it. About the 3rd time you move something and the whole thing falls in on itself you figure you have to come up with a better idea.

    I want to be able to grind the welds, no bondo, and have it look good. That's the goal. leave the bare metal exposed.

    I think everything right now is plus or minus an 1/8th. Little tug here, little push there... very close. I just don't want it to dip at the patch. Gotta have the good contour.

    Here's where we're at:







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    LIST OF SUZUKI ENGINES SPECIFICATIONS
    Last edited by Vectorsolid; 03-08-2011 at 10:58 PM.

 

 
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