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  1. #1

    Default Picked up first rat rod.. Starter questions...1947 ford

    Hi there, brand new to the site. Just picked up this 1947 ford 3/4 ton long box (wish it was a shorty) for $800 bucks delivered with a cool gas tank & some old tongue & groove wood for the bed. Its complete besides the tailgate (anybody got one for sale in the MN area?). Does not run and hasn't for 3 years (so he says)

    Anyways, My plan is to get it running and driving "as is" for as cheap as possible. Im a college student with no cash. The patinas fuxin sweet. I want to stay under $1500 ish for the build.

    I have a few basic knowledge questions to start:

    First the motor: it has a straight 6 and 6 volt. best place to start getting it running? and what should i know when converting to a 12 volt?

    wheels: i heard these are split rims are no good. but i can't find replacements that fit the bolt pattern and the big ass hub. I just want steelies with (maybe) white walls. Whats the best route? lug conversion? anybody know wheels that would fit? its a 5 lug by 7 bolt pattern & needs a good sized hole in the middle.

    Lowering: whats the best route? flip the shackles?

    lastly: Like i said i just want to get it running and driving for $1500 or under. let me know of any details i should know about the truck/build or references i should know about.

    Thanks in advanced! its communities like this that keep rodding alive & information flowing...post pictures of your fav 47 fords if you don't mind
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    Last edited by brozee9; 04-05-2017 at 01:05 PM.



  2. #2

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    Split rims are not good. I dont know any sjop around me thatbwill even touch them anymore. If the 6 turns over it might not be to hard to get running. Im just thinkin with doin a motor swap and all that 1500 will be hard to stay under. Remember dont cut saftey corners to keep it under your budget.
    Clutter is the evidence of life!

    https://www.minterfab.com/

  3. #3

    Default

    I'm with lowbudget50 on this one. I don't see this happening unless you can find a running, driving truck you can swap your cab and front sheet metal onto, then it will still be very tight for $1500. The last project I built I had $800 in just brake parts, and that was 5 years ago, I can't imagine its cheaper now.

    If you are not in love with the truck, you might be better off selling it and buying something running and drivable, or waiting until you have a better budget to work with.

    There may be some very experienced builders that have parts laying around that can build a ride that they can drive around the block in for under $2,000, and then they will be doing a lot more work and spending more money to make it roadworthy after they quit counting the money invested. I don't see a 1st time builder pulling it off. Sorry, Gene
    Last edited by Gene; 04-04-2017 at 05:49 PM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Westlock Alberta
    Posts
    411

    Default

    I dunno why but I can't see the pics... split rims are not good... even where I am shops won't touch them... but I'm sure a wrecking yard can get regular rims to fit your bolt pattern. Measure from the outside edge of 1 stud to the center of the stud opposite of that one. Man... get that 6 running! Get a can of carb cleaner take the carb apart give it a bit of a soaking blow out all the passages and make sure you can see light through the orifices. If you are careful not to damage gaskets ( use a razor to slide underneath and gently lift) you prolly won't need a rebuild kit. Put a new set of plugs in first... Maby the carb will be ok even. And that truck possibly has leaf spring suspension..... you can remove some leafs or make longer shackles to lower it. Or remember that truck may be a 6 volt system... If so I recently learned you can get 8 volt battery which will work and help crank the engine over faster.... but I believe the voltage regulator on the generator need to be adjusted with it. Good luck there's no reason you shouldn't be able to be driving that truck in budget with some hard work and scrounging around

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Washington
    Posts
    229

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    Brozee9 - welcome to the world of Ratin'! I agree with the previous posts - this is a major project that has potential. However, depending on your skill sets and resources $1500 can disappear rather quickly. Most people able to make budgets like that already have parts laying around. (But in true economic sense - the $400 454 I have on my shop floor without a project to put it into still will have cost me $400 - not $0) One other point is that unless you are 100% dedicated to the project, it makes it harder to stick with it. If you don't like the truck, sell it - before you pump any money into it. Craigslist is awash with projects that folks have poured thousands of dollars into, only to be able to sell it for a fraction of the investment. Years ago I bought a 1952 Dodge 1/2 truck. I liked it because it was old - not necessarily for the looks. (I had my hear set on a 1930's or 1940's Dodge truck) I spent $800 on the truck, another $1000 on glass and parts - about 60 hours of my time and then just didn't "feel the love" for her. Sold the unfinished project for $800....

  6. #6

    Default

    I'm also new to this site, but not new to old cars.

    First, you bought a cool old truck at a reasonable price and it looks pretty decent.

    Here's my advice:
    Don't spend any money until you have a plan. Spend your time and energy figuring out what you actually have. You stated that it may have started as recently as 3 years ago. You may very well have a "runner." A 12 volt conversion might be in the future (it's not that difficult, but the cost of battery, alternator, etc. all ads up), but if you can get it running as is, you might be able answer a lot of questions: does the clutch work? does the transmission shift? do the brakes work? is the wiring rotten, etc.?

    (The split rims are a bummer, but deal with that later.)

    If you can get it started, running, and be able to drive it down the alley, your opinion about it may change dramatically. You may decide you love it, you may decide you hate it. Figure that out before you open your wallet.

    Post some pictures of the engine compartment, wiring, suspension & the interior, dash, etc. I'd love to see more.
    Good luck!
    '49 Chevrolet 6400, Mater
    "I'm not very good, but I'm really slow."

  7. #7

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by StrayHorse View Post
    I'm also new to this site, but not new to old cars.

    First, you bought a cool old truck at a reasonable price and it looks pretty decent.

    Here's my advice:
    Don't spend any money until you have a plan. Spend your time and energy figuring out what you actually have. You stated that it may have started as recently as 3 years ago. You may very well have a "runner." A 12 volt conversion might be in the future (it's not that difficult, but the cost of battery, alternator, etc. all ads up), but if you can get it running as is, you might be able answer a lot of questions: does the clutch work? does the transmission shift? do the brakes work? is the wiring rotten, etc.?

    (The split rims are a bummer, but deal with that later.)

    If you can get it started, running, and be able to drive it down the alley, your opinion about it may change dramatically. You may decide you love it, you may decide you hate it. Figure that out before you open your wallet.

    Post some pictures of the engine compartment, wiring, suspension & the interior, dash, etc. I'd love to see more.
    Good luck!
    Very good advice there StrayHorse.... and very on point.

    I would say there is a good chance the bolt pattern is the big Ford 4x5.5 maybe you can find an old one someone has and test fit it.

    I like the truck, with the right stance and wheels, that body and long bed will look killer.

    Cheers
    RustyNCA

  8. #8

    Default

    Im new as well....good luck on your build...cant give much advice on this one.....but welcome.

  9. #9

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    It's called a Tonner and the wheels are unique to the model, no others were made AFAIK. You could just use 1/2 ton spindles and rear end to convert to 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern. As you probably already know since you are on FTE. That's a good bunch as several of them have Tonners. I personally have a 1940 Tonner panel truck but the original axles are not under it.
    Last edited by willowbilly3; 04-18-2017 at 12:15 AM.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Zephyrhills, Florida, USA
    Posts
    100

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Gene View Post
    I'm with lowbudget50 on this one. I don't see this happening unless you can find a running, driving truck you can swap your cab and front sheet metal onto, then it will still be very tight for $1500. The last project I built I had $800 in just brake parts, and that was 5 years ago, I can't imagine its cheaper now.

    If you are not in love with the truck, you might be better off selling it and buying something running and drivable, or waiting until you have a better budget to work with.

    There may be some very experienced builders that have parts laying around that can build a ride that they can drive around the block in for under $2,000, and then they will be doing a lot more work and spending more money to make it roadworthy after they quit counting the money invested. I don't see a 1st time builder pulling it off. Sorry, Gene
    Times 2 ^^^^^

 

 
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