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  1. #1

    Default First Build - 30A Tudor

    Hey everyone!
    Stoked to find this website!

    First time builder here, just picked up a 30A Tudor.

    It's on a frame but the body has definitely has been off before. 90% of the floor is still in the body but the front and back body mounts are gone. Some original wood left inside but not much.

    The guy before me smashed the doors shut and tacked them. I popped off the tacks to see how bad the doors were. The pass is not to bad but the driver is pretty wavy from them smashing it shut.

    So my doors wont shut now, body alignment looks way off. There aren't any shims between the body and the frame so I'm thinking I need to start there and try to get this thing lined up.

    Should I toss braces across the body before i loosen all the body bolts to put in shims? The top is pretty rough and may be sagging out a little that's why I wasn't sue about bracing side to side, but the body is bolted to a frame so I figured Its pretty close.

    Picked up a rear end out of a 97 F150 last night and ordered a few parts from Macs the other day. SO excited to finally be building me one
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  2. #2

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    Welcome aboard. From what can be seen and your description it sounds like a great start. I would brace it side to side and cross to help ensure it stays out when unbolting the body from the frame. Better safe than sorry.

  3. #3

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    I would definitely add some braces before you unbolt it from the frame. The top looks like its spreading out to me in the 2nd picture. Might be suck a thing that if you pulled the center of the roof back together more, the doors might work. I think I would screw a couple pieces of 2" x 4" wood across the top, see if you can pull the top back in so the doors line up with the quarters a bit better, then run the screws through the top holes and into the 2x4s. I suspect you can get the doors real close to working by pulling in the roof.
    You may also want to check the condition of the frame before you get too carried away, it may not be as straight as you think it is. After your sure the frame is straight and level, and you get that body close with the roof bracing, you start shimming at the cowl. It is the starting point. I wouldn't get in too big of a hurry unbolting the entire body from the frame, unless it needs straightening. If that is the case, brace the body as is, get the frame straight, and start from scratch. Gene

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gene View Post
    I would definitely add some braces before you unbolt it from the frame. The top looks like its spreading out to me in the 2nd picture. Might be suck a thing that if you pulled the center of the roof back together more, the doors might work. I think I would screw a couple pieces of 2" x 4" wood across the top, see if you can pull the top back in so the doors line up with the quarters a bit better, then run the screws through the top holes and into the 2x4s. I suspect you can get the doors real close to working by pulling in the roof.
    You may also want to check the condition of the frame before you get too carried away, it may not be as straight as you think it is. After your sure the frame is straight and level, and you get that body close with the roof bracing, you start shimming at the cowl. It is the starting point. I wouldn't get in too big of a hurry unbolting the entire body from the frame, unless it needs straightening. If that is the case, brace the body as is, get the frame straight, and start from scratch. Gene

    Much appreciated fellas. I started adding in some bracing last night from side to side, I pulled in the b post up top a tad, not much but just a hair. I got a few more side to side braces to add then I plan on unbolting the body and trying to shim. If you stand back and look at the body you can really see how un level it is.

    Anyone know the width across the top from inside the B pillars for these?

    That would help me a ton trying to figure out how much my top has sagged outward.

    Also picked up the cheapy Harbor Freight planishing hammer the other day, not a bad tool for $78 after the 20% coupon, should help me on a patch panel or two.

  5. #5

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    Last edited by IndyCoyote; 12-29-2016 at 06:09 AM.

  6. #6

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    Still fighting door issues. I am getting closer though. I've been using shims trying to level out the body. Got a few measurements looks like my top is about 1" out at the b pillar but pulling it in didn't really help much with the doors. The pass door will shut now but its still binding on the front cowl near the middle hinge.

    My driver door is really bad, bent all to hell. I took the panel that holds the handles out to help me flex it back to where it is supposed to be.

    Next step is to keep trying shims, any ideas would be great!

  7. #7

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    I think I found my issue with the doors. Bent hinges. Took about 6hrs but finally got all the hinge pins out with little drilling a lot of hammer smacking and some heat. Don't think I'll have to go with oversized pins. Now I'm onto trying to fix up the doors a bit, driver one is bent up pretty good. Trying to decide if I want to skin / patch panel the doors or leave as is.

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  8. #8

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    Ok little progress. I have the body pretty leveled now and bolted down to the original frame.

    Doors will shut, but I still need to bend my hinges back and put the pins in.

    I put the drivers door panel in last night, still needs tacked in. The plan right now is to get the driver door back together with some additional support, bend my hinges back, get the doors to shut on their own then weld in some bracing and take the body off.

    Just wondering if I should all this leveling and aligning now or just wait until I get my actual chassis going.

    Snagged a roof bow and a pretty decent windshield off ebay. Slowly but surely the body is coming back together.

    Also snagged a running 302, working 4 speed AOD, and driveshaft for $300. Yep, a Ford going in a Ford just like Henry intended.

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    Last edited by IndyCoyote; 03-03-2017 at 05:28 AM.

  9. #9

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    Nice work so far remember the gaps arnt going to be 100% they never were on a 30. I was always taught to square up from the ground up meaning I would square up the frame first including the mods your doing then I would focus on the body, don't get me wrong I would of made sure I could close the doors too before focusing on the frame.

 

 

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