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  1. #11

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    You can make any thing work. I started out with a triangulated 4 link just the same as you. I think i found it at a swap meet for cheap. I discovered that it wouldn't work with the interior I wanted so it quickly turned into an adjustable ladder bar set up. You just have to mess around with it until you get the setup you like.Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #12

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    Anything will work with anything if you know how to weld. ;)

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    North Carolina
    Posts
    36

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roddintherat View Post
    Found a 4 link kit on amazon cheap Top Street Performance
    CB5101 Steel Triangulated 4-Link Rear-End Kit anyone know if this will work on my model a
    Alright guys I'm looking for coilovers and they are expensive what are the budget builders using anything out there for under 100

  4. #14

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    Personally, I picked up a set of Koni coil overs with 150 or 200# springs on EBay. They were used from a dirt Modified race car. I think paid $40.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    North Carolina
    Posts
    36

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    Been checking ebay and Craigslist haven't found any coilovers cheap so I'm thinking using coil springs what car or trick can i get springs from that will work

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    North Carolina
    Posts
    36

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Would either of these work

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    North Carolina
    Posts
    36

    Default

    Come on guys someone has to have an opinion

  8. #18

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    The ones on the left would be close. The spring rate will depend on the finished car weight. No idea what the Caravan spring rate is. Some use 2 of the 4 coil overs from the rear of a Jaguar IRS set up. Typically 70's-80's are easy to find. Also heard of springs from civics and other imports, but experience with those at all. He'll, some people use motorcycle coilovers but again, no info on those either. I know it isn't a great, to the point answer but I have been dialing mine in as I keep changing things.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    North Carolina
    Posts
    36

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    I think I'll go with the ones on the left I'm trying to install the triangulated 4-link I've read so much now that I'm more confused then ever my frame will be 6in off the ground my rearend axle is 5in above the top of my frame rail when I was fitting my links I can't get the lower links level if I do they will be a scrub point there 4in from ground only way to make them work with the frame rails the lower will be aimed up and the top links will be aimed down and the bars intersect real close to each other im confused as what this will do I'm not understanding the roll steer and anti squat they just confused me can someone put all this into terms I can understand I thought I was decently smart but I truly feel like an idiot just can't understand it all im in knowledge overload

  10. #20

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    I stole this from somewhere on the web. I understand this is discussing drag car suspension, but the information will be helpful in planning:


    Ladder Bars or 4-Link;
    I personally prefer a 4-link set up to anything, IF I am the one doing the tuning and adjusting. If not I usually do a different suspension set-up so customers can make simple changes. Ladder bars are very simple and are easy to teach a customer how to adjust and when to adjust them.

    Truth is there are many racers using 4 link that really have not a lot of understanding of physics and why to adjust what. I have seen racers adjust bars up and down going far too radical of a change pretty much with all adjustments. After I saw a question and answers to those questions in a Forum between two different owners of Pro Mod cars that were professionally built and I saw that the answer given could cause a serious crash is when I began writing this.

    Most of the time minute adjusting can make huge differences. Simply a small change in rear ride height will alter the bar angles and the active point (Actual) of instant center. Slightly moving the front of the bottom bar and top bar down (lowering actual instant center, and at same time not moving it forward) can at times make a big difference in a car that tries to lift the left rear of the car like in a barrel roll, and also can help to keep the front tires from lifting as quick. This applies to cars with equal length bars. This quickie rule of thumb does not apply equally to cars with two different length bars. The effect will be similar but the Instant Center will also move rearward at the same time.

    Contrary to what many of your chassis shops will set and their adjustments, what you really want is in most instances the bottom bar will be near to level while under hard torque and full acceleration, not when the car is sitting still with no torque applied. Sitting still it will likely have the front of bottom bar lower than the rear of the same bar, by just a few degrees.

    Bottom Bar on 4 Links;
    If the bottom bar is close to level before the launch and the left front side of car is rising and the tire is planting lifting the rear, there can be a very negative effect called "Barrel Roll". That is because with all the suspension movements the bottom bar on the left can end up pushing upward and the bottom bar on the right side is pushing downward. Oops! Can you say Whoopie!. Animal Jim's car was a good example of this, also Charlie Bucks, car exhibited that trait. I also had one that did that until I changed the bottom bar. Simply lowering the actual point of instant center, which would also place the bottom bar in a downward angle, can help eliminate this. Anti-Roll bars now also help this. If lowering Instant Center is the only desire in change while keeping actual distance of Instant Center the same, you must move both bottom and top bars the same amount in the same direction. You can also move the rear of both bars up one hole if it looks close to the same IC length when you plot it out on paper, computer or however you plot out your suspension positions. There are now computer programs that can help you quite a lot as I mentioned earlier in this thread.

    If you will look under any top 16 Pro Stock car you can notice that the bars usually have not been in more then two to three different holes even from the very beginning. Most of the adjusting between the holes comes with the initial base lining while the car is new. Once a good overall baseline is found, most other tuning and adjusting to differing track conditions is minimal. Even slight adjusting changes make a big difference.

    Bar Spread Bar Mounting Locations;
    Important?

    Someone asked about rear bar mounting positions and if it is important. on another board.

    Yes it is but in my opinion at times some people make too big a fuss over bar spread in it's priority of importance.

    A correct set of rear 4 link brackets will measure shorter from axle center from top bracket holes and longer on bottom for bottom bracket holes.

    This is because of mechanical reaction time of top vs bottom and because of mechanical force or leverage of top vs bottom which is a multiplying factor of how much torque gets applied to either bottom or top bars.

    A correct rear 4 link top bracket will also have holes for adjusting Starting at bottom hole forward of vertical axle center and each additional hole will be farther from horizontal and vertical center of axle housing. Meanwhile at the bottom the bottom bracket will have all adjusting holes to be in a straight vertical line either at vertical center, but usually slightly forward of vertical center.

    The longer leverage at bottom will react quicker but not as much immediate force. The shorter leverage at top will react slower but with much greater instant force.

    So yes' It is important.
    Last edited by Sproket; 01-19-2017 at 08:07 AM.

 

 
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