Follow Us On Follow us on Facebook Watch us on YouTube Watch us on Google+
Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 21 to 29 of 29
  1. Default

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	mount.jpg 
Views:	22 
Size:	99.8 KB 
ID:	142097Click image for larger version. 

Name:	mount1.jpg 
Views:	19 
Size:	95.3 KB 
ID:	142098
    mounts take 1 mock up

  2. Default

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	f.jpg 
Views:	33 
Size:	137.6 KB 
ID:	142314Click image for larger version. 

Name:	fr.jpg 
Views:	28 
Size:	76.8 KB 
ID:	142315Click image for larger version. 

Name:	fra.jpg 
Views:	30 
Size:	114.2 KB 
ID:	142316Click image for larger version. 

Name:	fram.jpg 
Views:	32 
Size:	77.6 KB 
ID:	142317Click image for larger version. 

Name:	frame.jpg 
Views:	31 
Size:	96.2 KB 
ID:	142318
    my Christmas weekend trying to figure out all this. looks like i'll need to try a different spot for the engine mounts. looks like i'll need to offset the motor 1.5" to the passenger side.

  3. #23


    Is the oil pump sitting on the steering rack? Maybe you can raise the motor up an inch and have better clearance. That wouldn't be hard to do.

    Personally, I bolt on the exhaust (manifolds or headers), an oil pan, the trans, mount a starter, and anything else I think may cause a clearance issue onto the motor. Then I hang the motor/trans over the frame, at the correct angle, on a cherry picker. That way I can shift the motor any way it needs to go for clearance before I build any mounts. Its easier for me to build the new mounts as they need to be, to locate the motor properly, then it is to modify mounts made before hand. Nothing is more frustrating to me then having to figure out how to move something 3/4 of an inch on a ready made bracket. Gene

  4. Default

    I know its hard to tell in the pics but there's about an inch between the pump and rack. I'm hoping to have a different mount setup made to move the engine a bit higher. I know that the exhaust will have to be custom. I have a picker so its not such a chore to adjust things. my first motor location didn't leave enough room up front for fans etc.. the front frame stubs obviously aren't welded so I can adjust the fit. waiting on the front rims and tires to get here this weekend. then I will line them up in the fender openings and tack the front into place. I also have a radiator that is on back order that's supposed to be here in jan.

  5. Default

    big weekend for the truck project. got it out from the side of the house. then we pulled the cab and just placed it on the new frame stub. then we cut the original frame up and saved the front axle and the running boards and fuel tank the rest went to scrap. Click image for larger version. 

Name:	t.jpg 
Views:	21 
Size:	130.0 KB 
ID:	142756Click image for larger version. 

Name:	tr.jpg 
Views:	22 
Size:	147.9 KB 
ID:	142757Click image for larger version. 

Name:	tru.jpg 
Views:	18 
Size:	155.3 KB 
ID:	142758Click image for larger version. 

Name:	truc.jpg 
Views:	20 
Size:	102.3 KB 
ID:	142759Click image for larger version. 

Name:	truck.jpg 
Views:	22 
Size:	136.2 KB 
ID:	142760

  6. Default

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	trgr.jpg 
Views:	13 
Size:	102.3 KB 
ID:	142762 snug as a bug

  7. Default

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	plate.jpg 
Views:	15 
Size:	85.8 KB 
ID:	142763Click image for larger version. 

Name:	plates.jpg 
Views:	15 
Size:	75.3 KB 
ID:	142764
    I scored these original plates with the envelope and 53 tags for free!

  8. Default

    Just curious. What's the benefit of grafting the Dakota to the old trucks frame vs just using the entire Dakota frame?
    I am in the middle of a Dakota frame swap to a Studebaker pick up. Planned on swapping can onto the full Dakota frame. I'm a newbie though

    by just swapping the front suspension to the stock frame all the cab and bed mounts are there. when you swap the whole frame you have to fab mounts. the Dakota frame is also boxed half way down to just under the rear of the cab adding strength. another bonus is that the front suspension geometry obviously remains the same if its not removed. most of the time the rear dif will require adjustments usually forward to match the wheel base.

  9. Default

    decided to scrap the Dakota frame. its been fighting the 440 install every step of the way. just picked up a 91 ranger roller frame with all the brakes and power steering still attached. looks like plenty of room for the 440. just fyi Schumacher in seatlle is not making the swap kit for the 440 into a 1st gen Dakota anymore.


Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts