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  1. Default My '58 Jeep FC170 "Patina Rod" build

    Here's the 60-second "catch-up" post on my build.

    This will be a fairly low-budget build utilizing late-model drivetrain parts, with an attempt to maintain the character/patina of the FC cab. The cab will get a boiled linseed oil treatment.

    The plans:
    • Repair the floors in the cab and neutralize exterior rust as much as possible. Prep/paint the interior nicely, but retain the existing exterior paint scheme/patina, rust, etc.
    • Mount the cab on a 2008 Ford F350 Cab and Chassis frame (see below) painted nicely in satin black.
    • Mid-engine install of a '95 Cummins 6BT, 47RH 4WD transmission and 2001 Dodge NP241 DHD Transfer Case.
    • Build custom bumpers.
    • Build a semi-custom bed. The original bed is shot, so repair is not an option. Some of you chimed in and suggested rebuilding a bed like the stock one, but for me, the flatbed will give me the utility I need, and be a lot easier/cheaper than trying to reconstruct the stock-style bed.
    • Tire size? Stock F350 (~31-32" tall).
    • Must be built with a meager budget.

    The FC170 cab donor (see below). I originally started with a different "Dan's Snowplowing" FC170 cab, but plans changed when I found the (better-condition) gray/patina FC170.

    Jeep Commander "Saddle Brown" leather seats blend beautifully with the patina, and will add a touch of class to the interior. Matching custom leather arm rests and sun visors will complement the seats.

    I wanted a stout, longer-than-stock heavy-duty frame for my project. Rather than work with the original frame, I decide to mount the cab on a late-model F350 Cab & Chassis frame, allowing me to use off-the-shelf suspension & axle parts. Ultimately, I landed on using a 74K-mile 2008 frame, which included the fuel tank, lines, etc. It also has the side pieces for a hitch (but not the center section).

    The Ford Body Builder Guide on the Ford Fleet site has been an incredible resource for dimensional data.

    I got the narrow F350 Cab & Chassis Dana 80 (71.1" WMS-to-WMS) from the same 2008 F350 C&C. Gear ratio is 3.73.

    The front axle is a Dana Super 60 (3.73 ratio) from a 105K-mile 2005 F350 pick-up. I replaced the ball joints, U-joints & pinion seal, and am just finishing up getting the axle & suspension parts cleaned up & painted.

    1994 Cummins 12v 6BT, 230K miles

    Rebuilt 1994-1995 Dodge 47RH 4WD automatic transmission & 2001 NP241 DHD transfer case
    Last edited by 1x1_Speed_Craig; 03-14-2016 at 05:31 PM.

  2. Default

    You'll have to use some imagination since they're not assembled yet, but here are my Saddle Brown leather arm rest covers that my co-worker made for me (only $20 for the work!), and new arm rest foam from Walck's 4WD ($6.95 each). The teal one is a (brittle) original cover I gave my co-worker to use as a pattern. I'll get the metal arm rest frames blasted & powder coated soon, then mount up the leather covers.

    I also located a reasonably-priced NP241 DHD transfer case with 144K miles, originally behind a 2001 Cummins automatic (includes the front driveshaft, too). This is exactly the case I've been looking for.

    Last edited by 1x1_Speed_Craig; 08-16-2015 at 04:26 AM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Edmonton, Alberta, Canada


    This build reminds me of the flat deck off road truck in Fast 5. It's gonna be cool when you get it done.
    Last edited by Dextreme; 04-27-2015 at 06:47 PM. Reason: Added pic

  4. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dextreme View Post
    This build reminds me of the flat deck off road truck in Fast 5. It's gonna be cool when you get it done.
    Sweet! I'll have to re-watch that movie!

    I dropped off my metal arm rest frames and front brake rotors to the sandblaster/powdercoater today. The arm rest frames will be powdercoated in charcoal gray (like the lower sides of the Commander seats), and will be wire-wheeling & painting the front Dana 60 knuckles this weekend.

    Score! I also drove 4 1/2 hours round-trip this week to pick up this clean, relatively low-mileage (in Cummins terms, with 144K miles) Dodge 23-spline NP241 DHD from a female-driven 2001 Cummins automatic. It bolts right up to the '95 Dodge 47RH auto trans. I'll have to figure out cable shifters for both the trans & t-case...all in time. Since I'll eventually be using GPS gauges, the lack of a speedo port won't affect me.

    The transfer case will be cleaned & painted with Eastwood Aluma Blast, and the transmission/flywheel housing will be powdercoated in the same charcoal gray being used on the arm rest frames.

    Last edited by 1x1_Speed_Craig; 08-16-2015 at 04:27 AM.

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    While I didn't make it to Jeep Blessing this weekend, I did work on my FC today so that I might have a chance of bringing it to Jeep Blessing in 2018(ish). I got one of the knuckles prepped/primed, and also painted the axle shafts. Good thing I removed them, as I found a bad seal on the back side of the knuckle/unit bearing that is undoubtedly the reason the unit bearing failed on the previous owner (it actually had a 3/8" hole punched in it). I'll order new ones for both sides within the next couple weeks.

    I also got Mira's '97 XJ coil springs cleaned up & painted today, which is the last thing we needed to do before reassembling her front end with new and/or low-mileage parts.

  6. #6


    I love those old FC's can't wait to see it finished.

  7. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by sixfootdan View Post
    I love those old FC's can't wait to see it finished.
    That would make two of us then.

    To quote Prince, circa 1992, "U sexy motherf#%&er."

    Top coat is now done on the driver side knuckle (Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black). The passenger side will get done another weekend; for now, garage work is done, and it's movie time with my loving wife.

    With surgical precision (not really), I started removing the engine crossmember from the donor 2005 F350 frame. I think I can use it mid-frame on the 2008 frame, along with some 12v conversion mounts from to mount the Cummins. If my initial measurements are correct, I'll also be able to use the sides of the crossmember to support the front of the flatbed.

    Stay tuned...

    Last edited by 1x1_Speed_Craig; 08-16-2015 at 04:27 AM.

  8. Default

    Removing (for re-use) a Ford Super Duty engine crossmember is not for the faint of heart. Several hours, several more Sawzall blades, and a few grinder discs later, I finally have it removed. An exercise in patience, it was. A plasma cutter sure would be nice, but is not in the budget (and won't be for the foreseeable future).

    Here it is set temporarily in place on the 2008 F350 Chassis Cab frame (the stock transmission crossmember will be removed, of course). It'll have to be modified, obviously, but I think it'll put me light years ahead vs. starting from scratch.

    Here are the Cummins 12v motor mounts that I'll be ordering once I save up some more dollars.

    My Warn hidden hitch brackets a horribly-beaten box. The finish is beat to hell (and super thin powdercoat in some places), but the brackets look OK structurally. This was not UPS' fault; Warn's packaging was horrible. Nice job, Warn.
    Last edited by 1x1_Speed_Craig; 08-16-2015 at 04:28 AM.

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    I set the Warn hidden winch brackets on the frame to see how they'd look. They're nicely-built pieces for only $40 each. I'll build a custom crossmember between them, which will be used to mount the front of the FC cab (2 body mounts up front).

    I did go ahead and order a set of the Destroked motor mounts (for '99-'05 Super Duty). I guess I"m committed.

    I also unbolted the original transmission crossmember after these pics were taken, and started removing misc. items/wiring from the Cummins 12v that I won't need (e.g. - A/C compressor, lines, etc.).

    Much of the day Saturday was spent getting the new front suspension parts & axle reinstalled in my daughter Mira's Jeep.

    Last edited by 1x1_Speed_Craig; 08-16-2015 at 04:29 AM.

  10. #10


    Cool Jeep, is it a Cherokee your daughters car?? :)


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