The front end has been completely gone through. New rotors, pads, calipers, wheel bearings, ball joints, steering links, everything. I also did a Blazer big brake conversion that provides larger rotors and dual piston calipers in lieu of the original single piston calipers. All brake parts come from a 2000 Blazer using 2000 Blazer spindles. For the spindles I also bought 2-wd Beltech 2 in. drop spindles, PN 2102. Most of the info on how to do this is on the S10 forums but it’s fairly easy, just replace the spindles, wheel bearings, and brake parts with those from a 2000 Blazer. You can also use Corvette calipers and rotors with some adapter brackets. I added hubcentric 2 in. wheel spacers to get the proper front tract width also.
I also pulled a sway bar off a 2000 Olds Bravada which is significantly larger in diameter than the stock S10 sway bar. It was a direct bolt in and I have been told these are the sway bars they used in the ZQ8 S10s.
Last edited by HUSSEY; 08-25-2015 at 01:20 PM.
The front springs were a pain to get back in. I first had to compress the spring to to get it up into the spring tower and the a-arm under it. I borrowed a spring compression tool from O’Reilly’s and even had to cut down the rod a little to get it to fit up into the spring tower. Since I didn’t have much weight on the chassis yet, I then had to chain a jack to it to compress the spring to get the lower ball joint attached. Here’s a couple of pictures of how I went about it.
Last edited by HUSSEY; 08-25-2015 at 01:15 PM.
Did the rear swap require any fittings going from drum to disk? I have considered the Explorer Rear but like the GM 4wd option to keep it simple.
Nope, no special fittings required, everything hoked right up. I plan on getting an adjustable proportioning valve but sticking with my existing disk/drum S10 master cylinder. I still need to check it out and make sure there's no drum brake residual valves in it.
Originally Posted by snipes
My engine came from Pick N' Pull, I grabbed it during a 4th of July weekend during their half off sale. It’s a 350 that came out of a 1990 K1500 with TBI. This so far has been the best deal on the truck; I think I have about $85 in it. It came with the intake and the TBI unit. I had to pay a little extra for the MAP sensor, EGR solenoid, Engine Control Module, Spark Control Module, etc. The front end accessories came off the 4.3 from my S10. I had earlier bought a long block 350 Vortec off a guy for $50 who had just swapped his out with a new motor from Jegs. It needed a rebuild and I bought it just to mock up the motor position. I ended up selling it for $100 so that was an extra $50 that went back in to my build fund.
Last edited by HUSSEY; 08-25-2015 at 01:11 PM.
A few other little things are done too like a new fuel pump and fuel lines routed and hooked up. Power steering lines also hooked up. The engine is set but I can adjust it forward or backward a couple of inches once I get the cab on. I’m using Advance Adapters S10 conversion motor mounts.
I know there’s multiple ways to do the motor mounts but this is the solution I came up with. The S10 conversion mounts are meant to move the motor forward not back. You need to move the motor back with an S10 chassis swap.
I bought a set of S10 conversion mounts thinking I could simply swap them side to side to get the motor to move back not forward. However, the fuel pump casting of the block interferes with the motor mount adapter plates.
So, I put the S10 conversion mounts on the chassis and the rubber motor mounts on the motor. One other problem, at least on my chassis, the chassis motor mount bolt holes are not symmetrical. This is why the S10 2.8L motor mounts have slots in them and the Corvette style has holes.
You can install the top bolt then drill the other two or weld the S10 conversion mounts to the chassis. I haven’t gotten my engine set yet so I’ve put off worrying about final attachment until then; though, I will probably bolt them on.
I picked up my S10 conversion mounts on eBay for $30 shipped. Otherwise, I don't think I would have experimented with them.
So in summary, S10 conversion mounts bolted to the chassis, rubber motor mounts bolted to the motor. From my measurements, this will get the motor back about 4 inches which I’m hoping is enough for radiator clearance; otherwise I will have to come up with another solution.
Anchor 2436, 1990 S10 2.8L
Anchor 2713, 1990 Corvette
Last edited by HUSSEY; 08-07-2015 at 11:00 AM.
HUSSY, Man your SMOKIN ALONG !!! Ive been making headway (slowly) on mine. Just busy as heck around home. Anyways, your going to be cruisin shortly in your Chevy. Keep goin. Im liking it.
Well, my frequency of posts may be a little deceiving; I actually started the project over a year ago. I wanted to start a build thread so I've been writing up what I've been doing. I did have a long stretch last year where I was traveling a lot for work, working around the home like you, and spending time with my family. I've been keeping a steady pace recently though. I don't so much have an end goal in mind to have it finished, just that I maintain the enjoyment of working on it.
Originally Posted by my48dmnT
Once I got the motor set on the chassis I built the exhaust from mandrel u-bends back to the muffler. I’m running Headman S10 V8 conversion headers. The y-pipe is 2.5 inch out of the headers with a 3 inch pipe back to the muffler. The muffler is a Flowmaster 40 Series and has dual 2.5 inch pipes out. Once I get the bed and rear bumper on I’ll figure out the routing back and under the bumper.
Last edited by HUSSEY; 08-07-2015 at 11:01 AM.