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Thread: Inspections

  1. #31


    this should be a no brainier as you are trying to build a relationship with a tech whos willing to entertain your rat rod for an OOP, but showing up on a sunny Friday afternoon around 2:00-3:00 for your OOP with a big case of beer for him and the boys never hurts a good relationship. especially when you want him to remember you a year or 2 later when you come in with your net build.
    Last edited by turbominivan; 05-22-2016 at 07:08 PM.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Edmonton, Alberta, Canada


    For anyone in the Edmonton area, I hear the Fountain Tire in St.Albert is hot rod friendly. I haven't talked to anyone that works there but talking to guys at shows and other shops that's what I'm hearing. Also, thanks for all the info Turbo!

  3. #33


    Quote Originally Posted by turbominivan View Post
    concerning vintage license plates..........

    i have a 4 digit 1927 Alberta plate on my 1927 car and i have 'dual registration'. what this means is that i pay the typical yearly fee to have a modern plate, and i have payed a one time fee (only $25 if i remember) to have a registered vintage plate. on my registration card the vintage plate number is listed as a 'unit number'.
    the reason i did this was so that i could drive my rat as a daily driver, but still get away with having an original 1927 plate on the back.... so i was made to understand.
    i was told at the registries that i was able to drive around only displaying the vintage plate and i was to keep the modern plate in the glove box and if i got pulled over, i would simply present the modern plate along with my liscence and insurance. i was told that the vintage plate, if run in the cops computer, would simply refer them to this other modern active plate.... so ive been running the 1927 plate on the car.
    ive been pulled over twise now simply to have my checked out (since its pretty wild and looks less than road worthy) and both times the cop did not know anything about vintage vehicles or vintage plates and so on. SOOO i used his confusion to my advantage and had him run the 1927 plate and see what happened. turns out that it came up to be inactive, but last registered to a 90 year old woman in southern alberta on a green mid 40s dodge coupe. it was not tied to my modern plate at all. the cop was ok with the fact that the car was legal and i DID have a propper plate but suggested i check with the registry to be sure about my story with what they had told me.
    after checking with the registry again i must have gotten some skewed info. the real deal is that when driving on the roads, you must display a valid modern plate. when at a car show, you are then able to remove the modern plate and display the vintage one. so why even register the old plate at all?..... exactly....
    license plates are not transferable between names/people. they are registered to a person, not a vehicle. hence why the old lady came up as the owner of that plate.
    since then i have sadly put my modern plate back on and will just save myself the possible issues if i ever get pulled over and the cop want to be a jerk.... although i have not yet met a cop who was rude or harsh with me concerning my car. all of them have been very cordial and understanding and mostly interested to know HOW i got the car registered to be street legal. after explaining the legal process to them, they have all told me to have a nice day and complimented my build. in reality, most cops wave and smile =)
    This is sort of correct.... Your original YOM (Year of Manufacture) plate can be linked to another plate (the YOM plate does get listed as the Unit #), with that one being in the glovebox, or whatever....BUT only on an antique plate. I just talked to my registration office to have this clarified. I searched it to try and verify after she told me this, because I too would like to use my '27 plate AND still drive daily.....buuuut I guess its one or the other. YOM plate on display with only antique registration (and antique limited use), or daily use with a modern plate. Here is a link with some clarification....

  4. #34


    ^ yes you are absolutely correct on this. perhaps i just over complicated my explanation.

  5. #35


    i took my third build (a 1929 ford speedster) for its Alberta OOP yesterday and passed just fine using the original VIN#.
    i met the necessary era appropriate requirements, which is half the battle, but also the build quality was able to speak for itself as far as solid and safe construction.
    this is an area i haven't touched on yet here. there's not much to say about it that couldn't already be assumed, but its the government who wants to see the proper safety equipment, its the actual mechanic doing the inspection who is to use common sense to judge weather it is SAFE or not. the inspection form may say you need to have a floor.... its up to the mechanic to ensure that the floor is not going to fall out or something. hes not a structural engineer, but dont expect him to not question scary looking welds and unprotected wires rubbing against fuel lines and that sort of thing. for example, the tech who did my OOP was telling me he failed a car for having openings in the floor panels, as well as not having side windows/glass. he feared that with the tight and short style of exhaust pipes on the motor, and no side glass, fumes could easily vent into the cab and cause exhaustion. was he wrong in this? perhaps not according to OOP paperwork, BUT using his own judgement, it wasn't a risk he was willing to sign his inspection number to, so he failed the car. i have seen that car. its a quality build, and to me, it wouldn't be a major issue, but my job isnt on the line if there's an issue down the road.
    on the other hand, i know of a number of cars that "meet the requirements" to pass an OOP, but should they be on the road when looking at the build quality???? YIKES!!!! im no master fabricator or engineer myself when it comes to these builds, but sometimes it takes everything i have to not find the owner/builder at a car show and point things out and question there thinking!
    know the areas where you can cut corners and save time or $, and know the areas you cant.
    Last edited by turbominivan; 03-25-2016 at 01:05 PM.

  6. #36

  7. #37


    more updates ;)

    i am currently working on a vintage Ferrari F1 reproduction that i plan to be streetable. this being the case, i will have no choice but to go the assigned VIN route so i have been doing some looking into it and making some calls to be sure im not wasting my time and money.

    after talking to the 'insurance bureau of canada' about the validity of this type of vehicle they said it was no issue at all and i would simply require an assigned VIN number through the " Alberta assigned VIN program". this would label my car as basically what ever i wanted to call it. just because i will call it a Ferrari, does not mean i will have to pay Ferrari insurance premiums on it later. i will still pay insurance on it based on what i value it at, or wheat an appraisal values it at.... so no different that our rat rods.

    then, talking again to Bob Ireland of "Alberta Transportation" about the requirements needed to pass an out of provance inspection with an assigned VIN, these are the specific required equpitment I and any assigned VIN or "home built" vehicle needs....

    -high and low beam headlights
    -day time running lights front and rear (these can be your low beams for the front, and running lights for the rear)
    -a dash indicator for your high beams (a light that illuminates with your high beams so you know if your blinding traffic by accident)
    -left and right turn signals, WITH blinking dash indicator lights (so you know if you have left a blinker on)
    -front and rear side reflectors. sticker style like they make for trailers are acceptable.
    -Neutral/reverse safety switch so it can not be started while in gear.
    -license plate light
    -3rd high mount brake light. how high it needs to be mounted was not specified. you just have to have a 3rd brake light.
    -working audible horn
    -bumpers attached to the frame rails
    -cabin must be sealed from fuel tank compartment
    -floors must be closed from the roadway. no steel mesh or open floor pans.
    -defroster. stupid, but its a requirement to have one. go to 'Canadian tire' and buy a $15 cigarette-lighter plug in style "defroster" and keep it in the glove box and your good.
    -windshield must be marked with safety DOT compliant markings. (i forget exactly what marking codes these were in canada) this is likely the hardest one to pass. i need to do more reading into the safety glass standards
    -and finally seat belts.... seat belts ARE NOT required. in fact, i was told that because of the similar DOT standards of factory seat belts, and their mounting points and all that goes into that on an engineered production vehicle, the best thing to do is build and have the vehicle OOP inspected WITHOUT seat belts, then install seat belts or harnesses afterwards. harnesses especially because even a brand new set of 5 point Simpson harnesses, although NHRA legal, are not considered DOT. thus, if you install them as your seat belts before inspection, you could technically fail due to non-DOT seat belts.

    when i was younger i had a streetable race car with a 5 point harness. i got pulled over one evening at random and i got a seat belt ticket because i was not wearing a factory installed DOT seat belt. although it seems arguable, he had every right to ticket me, and knowing what i know now, he WAS in the right being that the car originally came with a factory installed seat belt that i had removed. as a home build car however, if its not built or inspected with a seat belt, and you choose to install and wear a 5 point, the law has no hold on you other than "if you have it, you must be wearing it".
    Last edited by turbominivan; 12-29-2016 at 06:30 PM.


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