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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    new zealand
    Posts
    35

    Default 4 bar rear end set up advice needed.

    Setting up my 4 bar rear end
    Any body got any tricks or things to look out for?
    Here's a few pics so far everthing only tacked in place naturaly.

    Cheers in advance
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  2. #2

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 1936rat View Post
    Setting up my 4 bar rear end
    Any body got any tricks or things to look out for?
    Here's a few pics so far everthing only tacked in place naturaly.

    Cheers in advance
    I'm no expert, but I would think with that layout, you would need a panhard bar since it appears you aren't running a triangulated setup.

    Check out this helpful little link...

    http://site.streetissuecustoms.com/4linkFAQ.html

    Cheers

  3. #3

    Default

    agreed.


    but...

    the hangers welded to your axle don't look like they give you too much of an option for triangulation.
    (unless you bend the bars or something)

    just add a panhard bar to control side to side movement of the axle

    speedway's got you covered.


    $80 http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Bolt-O...Axle,2208.html

    $60 http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Panhar...DisplayId=2208

    ----


    also make sure to set the pinion angle at 3 degrees up at the yoke

    read this setup guide from Inland Empire Driveline:

    http://www.iedls.com/Education-Zone.asp?CID=3
    Last edited by biGshiz79; 12-27-2011 at 03:41 PM.
    Bodyman, painter, frame guy.. basically I hit sh*t with hammers..

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Edmonton Alberta
    Posts
    293

    Default

    looks good, if you want to avoid the use of a pan hard bar (less links and moving parts to worry about) you could move the top links together at the front to triangulate it.
    here is my setup....


  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    new zealand
    Posts
    35

    Default

    Thanks for the quick replies.
    I'm going to use a panard rod on this rear end.
    What do think about the coil overs mounted straight up and down I notice most people are using one's that angle inwards toward the centre onf the chassis.


    Thanks again and happy new year hangovers

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Edmonton Alberta
    Posts
    293

    Default

    the coil over shock's should be just fine mounted straight up and down.... i think mounting them at a angle will give you a bit of a softer ride....

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Wichita, KS
    Posts
    294

    Default

    Hey 36, I am not sure how much power you plan to put through this thing but it wouldn't hurt to have the correct geometry even if it is a fairly mild set up. This website is geared towards drag racing but the geometry and theories it explains can apply to street stuff too. It covers 4-link geometry and lots of other factors:

    http://www.baselinesuspensions.com/i...A_Drag_Car.htm

    Also, I assume you just have half of them on for mock up but just in case, make sure those front brackets are in double shear like the rears are.

    You can also run a diagonal link attached to the lower 4-link attatch points at opposing corners instead of a panhard bar and it is very easy, basically a bolt on deal.

  8. #8

    Default

    mounting the coilovers at an angle reduces the spring rate, depending on the degree.

    there's charts and calculators available to help you do the math if you google it
    Bodyman, painter, frame guy.. basically I hit sh*t with hammers..

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    new zealand
    Posts
    35

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 62ChevyII View Post
    Hey 36, I am not sure how much power you plan to put through this thing but it wouldn't hurt to have the correct geometry even if it is a fairly mild set up. This website is geared towards drag racing but the geometry and theories it explains can apply to street stuff too. It covers 4-link geometry and lots of other factors:

    http://www.baselinesuspensions.com/i...A_Drag_Car.htm

    Also, I assume you just have half of them on for mock up but just in case, make sure those front brackets are in double shear like the rears are.

    You can also run a diagonal link attached to the lower 4-link attatch points at opposing corners instead of a panhard bar and it is very easy, basically a bolt on deal.
    Hi 62 chev

    I have the other half of the front brackets ie these are at mock up stage.
    I have a 454 , toploader and 3.9 geared 9 " so should lauch pretty hard.
    What do you guys think about the strength of a 1939 mercury chassis???????

    The diagonal link you mention i thought these were a no no on the street??

    Thanks for all the input so far guys.
    Last edited by 1936rat; 12-29-2011 at 04:04 PM.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Wichita, KS
    Posts
    294

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 1936rat View Post
    Hi 62 chev

    What do you guys think about the strength of a 1939 mercury chassis???????
    I would think you'd wanna add some structure, at least an x-brace. A roll bar with bars running fore and aft would sure stiffen things up a bunch.

    Quote Originally Posted by 1936rat View Post
    The diagonal link you mention i thought these were a no no on the street??
    Ya know, I hadn't heard that but I did a little research and I think you are right. Although, as light as this thing will be, it might not be an issue. Your panhard bar is probably a good plan. A wish bone is nice but the sliding aspect of the slip tube might eventually get gummed up with street use.

 

 
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