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  1. #71
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    South Florida
    Posts
    110

    Default Front Fender Wells

    Finally got the front wheel wells done, was waiting for undercoat and the seam sealer to come in. This was not as hard as the rear wheel wells mainly because it was smaller. I was able to cut the addition out of one piece and then bend and weld it together. Unlike the rear wheel wells which I had to make out of three pieces, and use the shrinker, English wheel, and bead roller. Once the front wells were tacked in a little hammer work was needed to get a nice fit. Did the final welding, then grinding and sanding the whole wheel well before seam sealer and undercoat was added. A little prep then paint.

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    This is the before I started pic and then the metal cut out on the second pic.

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    Here I am test fitting both side to check for any fine tuning before tech welds go on. Did use the English wheel to get the curve just wright.

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    Final welds completed and I did some stich welds on the under side for extra strength.

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    Here is the seam sealer added and sanding with 80 grit paper before painting.

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    Done



  2. #72
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    South Florida
    Posts
    110

    Default

    Was going thought the post and found I didn't answer this post. I plan on using the original trans just because this is a numbers matching car. Plus I would have to cut out the entire tunnel to get a bigger trans to fit. If I were going to change the trans I would put in a six speed anyway.

  3. #73

    Default

    scopemycaddy - do you have anymore updates on the build? I'd love to see where the Caddy finished up.

  4. #74
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    South Florida
    Posts
    110

    Default

    Hey guys, bad news got a divorce and the wife is a pain. Have to sell this caddy and the warehouse. I am looking to get $10k for everything Caddy, tools, equipment and all my parts. Let me know if anyone can help me out.
    Here is the some pics. I just finished the dash and wired it up. the caddy just needs to be put together and I have all the main parts. some small parts are needed to be ordered to get the car in driving condition. but I have the wiring kit air bag kit. plus all trim and original parts.

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    This engine is worth the $10K alone but have to move this fast so message me back if you are interested.
    thanks

  5. #75
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    South Florida
    Posts
    110

    Default Steering wheel restore

    Hey guys I got no Offers for my caddy so I guess I will have to finish this car before I get any offers.
    So forward we go...

    Here is me restoring the steering wheel with standard putty adhesive and sanding smooth.

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    See all the cracks and missing chunks of the original wheel here.

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    Here I used a dermal to grind out all the cracks to make room for the putty adhesive.

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    You can see the putty jammed in to the cracks and once dry I did the sanding with 180 grit all the way to 600 grit for the primer filler and base coat.
    Once the base was on did some more sanding with 800 to smooth it all out for final painting. I use Orion silver base then red candy and Flat black for the hand grips.
    Oh as you can see in the earlier pics the center horn ring was redish color. I don't know who it was that did that because the chrome under the center ring was like brand new.

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    And that was that. not real hard just a lot of waiting for putty and paint to dry.

  6. #76

    Default

    Glad to see your still working on it. The wheel turned out nice.

  7. #77
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    South Florida
    Posts
    110

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by alaska gasser View Post
    Glad to see your still working on it. The wheel turned out nice.
    Thanks, Going to start wiring next, I think...Or maybe some more body work.

  8. #78
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    South Florida
    Posts
    110

    Default Fuel Lines

    Got parts in for the fuel lines. I used the Banjo Style fitting Because of the tight space between the power steering pump and the linkages for the carbs. I may remove them for polishing later so they fit the engine a little better.
    I was hoping the Banjo fittings would have been a little smaller because the linkage was real close. But a little modification to the center link was needed to clear the fuel line. I all works and looks good.

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    Before
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    After
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    I will get the clamps on I cant find the box I had with all the clamps. lol

    I plan on doing wiring next with dual batteries in the truck but may need to remove the spare tire well to make a battery box.

  9. #79

    Default

    Lookin good man! Keep on it. It will be worth it when its done!
    Clutter is the evidence of life!

    https://www.minterfab.com/

  10. #80
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    South Florida
    Posts
    110

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by lowbudget50 View Post
    Lookin good man! Keep on it. It will be worth it when its done!
    Thanks man, will do

 

 
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