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4 bar rear end set up advice needed.

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  • 4 bar rear end set up advice needed.

    Setting up my 4 bar rear end
    Any body got any tricks or things to look out for?
    Here's a few pics so far everthing only tacked in place naturaly.

    Cheers in advance
    Attached Files

  • #2
    Originally posted by 1936rat View Post
    Setting up my 4 bar rear end
    Any body got any tricks or things to look out for?
    Here's a few pics so far everthing only tacked in place naturaly.

    Cheers in advance
    I'm no expert, but I would think with that layout, you would need a panhard bar since it appears you aren't running a triangulated setup.

    Check out this helpful little link...

    http://site.streetissuecustoms.com/4linkFAQ.html

    Cheers

    Comment


    • #3
      agreed.


      but...

      the hangers welded to your axle don't look like they give you too much of an option for triangulation.
      (unless you bend the bars or something)

      just add a panhard bar to control side to side movement of the axle

      speedway's got you covered.


      $80 http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Bolt-O...Axle,2208.html

      $60 http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Panhar...DisplayId=2208

      ----


      also make sure to set the pinion angle at 3 degrees up at the yoke

      read this setup guide from Inland Empire Driveline:

      http://www.iedls.com/Education-Zone.asp?CID=3
      Last edited by biGshiz79; 12-27-2011, 04:41 PM.
      Bodyman, painter, frame guy.. basically I hit sh*t with hammers..

      Comment


      • #4
        looks good, if you want to avoid the use of a pan hard bar (less links and moving parts to worry about) you could move the top links together at the front to triangulate it.
        here is my setup....

        My build, A Long ongoing project....http://www.killbillet.com/forum/20s-...ect-what-is-it

        Comment


        • #5
          Thanks for the quick replies.
          I'm going to use a panard rod on this rear end.
          What do think about the coil overs mounted straight up and down I notice most people are using one's that angle inwards toward the centre onf the chassis.


          Thanks again and happy new year hangovers

          Comment


          • #6
            the coil over shock's should be just fine mounted straight up and down.... i think mounting them at a angle will give you a bit of a softer ride....
            My build, A Long ongoing project....http://www.killbillet.com/forum/20s-...ect-what-is-it

            Comment


            • #7
              Hey 36, I am not sure how much power you plan to put through this thing but it wouldn't hurt to have the correct geometry even if it is a fairly mild set up. This website is geared towards drag racing but the geometry and theories it explains can apply to street stuff too. It covers 4-link geometry and lots of other factors:

              http://www.baselinesuspensions.com/i...A_Drag_Car.htm

              Also, I assume you just have half of them on for mock up but just in case, make sure those front brackets are in double shear like the rears are.

              You can also run a diagonal link attached to the lower 4-link attatch points at opposing corners instead of a panhard bar and it is very easy, basically a bolt on deal.

              Comment


              • #8
                mounting the coilovers at an angle reduces the spring rate, depending on the degree.

                there's charts and calculators available to help you do the math if you google it
                Bodyman, painter, frame guy.. basically I hit sh*t with hammers..

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by 62ChevyII View Post
                  Hey 36, I am not sure how much power you plan to put through this thing but it wouldn't hurt to have the correct geometry even if it is a fairly mild set up. This website is geared towards drag racing but the geometry and theories it explains can apply to street stuff too. It covers 4-link geometry and lots of other factors:

                  http://www.baselinesuspensions.com/i...A_Drag_Car.htm

                  Also, I assume you just have half of them on for mock up but just in case, make sure those front brackets are in double shear like the rears are.

                  You can also run a diagonal link attached to the lower 4-link attatch points at opposing corners instead of a panhard bar and it is very easy, basically a bolt on deal.
                  Hi 62 chev

                  I have the other half of the front brackets ie these are at mock up stage.
                  I have a 454 , toploader and 3.9 geared 9 " so should lauch pretty hard.
                  What do you guys think about the strength of a 1939 mercury chassis???????

                  The diagonal link you mention i thought these were a no no on the street??

                  Thanks for all the input so far guys.
                  Last edited by 1936rat; 12-29-2011, 05:04 PM.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by 1936rat View Post
                    Hi 62 chev

                    What do you guys think about the strength of a 1939 mercury chassis???????
                    I would think you'd wanna add some structure, at least an x-brace. A roll bar with bars running fore and aft would sure stiffen things up a bunch.

                    Originally posted by 1936rat View Post
                    The diagonal link you mention i thought these were a no no on the street??
                    Ya know, I hadn't heard that but I did a little research and I think you are right. Although, as light as this thing will be, it might not be an issue. Your panhard bar is probably a good plan. A wish bone is nice but the sliding aspect of the slip tube might eventually get gummed up with street use.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Length of four bars?

                      Have heard that the length of the four bars should not be to short.

                      What is to short the top measure about 14" and bottoms 16"
                      Is this to short?

                      Thanks

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        hmmmm. trying to remember what length mine worked out at..... did that last year and cant remember off the top of my head... but i think i would try to get a few inches longer if you can... but your not building a rock crawler and i dont think you need a pile of suspension travel so you may be ok, but i am by no means a 4 link expert so my info comes with a grain of salt...
                        My build, A Long ongoing project....http://www.killbillet.com/forum/20s-...ect-what-is-it

                        Comment

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