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Under Slung Frames

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  • Under Slung Frames

    Can someone post some build pics of vehicles with under slug frames. I need the pros and cons. All I have picked up on is that they are good for "shade tree builders" and require little to no z. HELP
    A bend in the road isnt the end of the road unless you fail to make the corner!

  • #2
    I have attached a photo of my "under construction" underslung. this is the first time I've tried this so not sure the photo will go through.the frame is a 47 ford pickup flipped over. the cab is a 49-50 F4. I've fixed some cracks in the frame around the old front spring forward hanger, and then replaced the hanger with a new style used on the 49 F1. The front axle is a 47. The front springs are the original just re-stacked to figure the ride height. I'll need to have new springs made (that's the bad part about the underslung).
    The rear axle is from a 42-47 pickup. Again new springs will need to be made, but I re-stacked them so I could assemble it this far to check to see if this was going to work. I have a 49 Ford flathead V8 and an open drive 3-speed for power. After a few false starts it has taken me a year to get this far. I've purchased three frames, and two cabs, but still have less than $250 in those parts.
    Attached Files

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    • #3
      mines made for a model A

      6 inch Z in the front

      under the rear axle.. with proper tires frame is 4 1/4 inches off the ground

      will lay frame without hitting the oilpan.

      http://www.streetrodderstuff.com/ratrod.htm








      Last edited by biGshiz79; 02-09-2010, 07:27 PM.
      Bodyman, painter, frame guy.. basically I hit sh*t with hammers..

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      • #4
        bigshiz79, thats one strait up legit susspenssion set up, ill have to start a thread of the 25DB underslung frame im getting ready to build. underslung weirdos have to stick together...
        'fly high, fly fast & cover your ass'

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        • #5
          Under slung frames are a great way to get the car down low, I would love to do one some days. A couple things to remember for saftey though are your scrub lines and front frame horns.
          Your scrub line comes into play in the catastrophic failure of a tire; the worst case is if your tire blows completely off the rim. If that happens the only thing keeping your frame off the road is your wheel. You want to have a large enough wheel (in diameter obviously) that your frame (or your lowest hanging part, ie oil pan, transmission pan) will not touch the ground without a tire mounted. The second thing to consider is you frame rail horns up front.
          With older frames the frame rails curved down so when you flipped the frame upside down they pointed up. This is great if (actually when) your frame horns contact something. If they are cured up it is more likely that the frame will rise up and ride over the obstruction. If your frame rails are straight or downward pointing it might catch the obstruction and that will be a brown moment.
          Last edited by Dodge41; 03-18-2011, 05:23 PM.

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          • #6
            You also have to think about future service. If you put one under a full bodied car you have to pull the body if you have to replace the housing for some reason. Some thing to think about.

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            • #7
              I dont like it. JMO
              HD Industries
              www.hdindustries.ca

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              • #8
                If it's got a 'z' in the front ,the horns will not hit the ground.
                >>>[Quote] >>> The second thing to consider is you frame rail horns up front.
                With older frames the frame rails curved down so when you flipped the frame upside down they pointed up. This is great if (actually when) your frame horns contact something. If they are cured up it is more likely that the frame will rise up and ride over the obstruction. If your frame rails are straight or downward pointing it might catch the obstruction and that will be a brown moment.
                >
                >
                After you remove the rear wheels and the suspension connections, the rear assy. can be removed (pulling it through the frame,out the side of )...would be pretty easy with the frame on the ground.
                (like pulling a rear out, w/o removing the leaf springs).
                >>[Quote] >>>You also have to think about future service. If you put one under a full bodied car you have to pull the body if you have to replace the housing for some reason. Some thing to think about.
                Last edited by chuckles; 03-29-2011, 06:04 AM.
                'NamVet
                'Seabees'
                "CANDO"
                DAV.

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                • #9
                  thats all true with regaurds to the rear end housing, but the way i look at it if you trash a rear end housing there's probalby more to replace so the bodys' comin off anyways,.... its all what ifs' though
                  me personally i have never thrashed a rearend housing to the point of having to swap it out, just the gears, axles& bearings and that can all be done with it on the car.
                  ill be starting a thread when i get back to the states and get my 25DB bare bones project.

                  bigshiz79 that rear set up is to freaking sick, i hate to build anything similar to someone elses but the way you did that is to unique, ill have to use some of your design elemets, however the front on mine will run parellel leafs. ill have to upload an layout i made using autocadd.....
                  'fly high, fly fast & cover your ass'

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by moparob View Post
                    bigshiz79 that rear set up is to freaking sick, i hate to build anything similar to someone elses but the way you did that is to unique, ill have to use some of your design elemets, however the front on mine will run parellel leafs. ill have to upload an layout i made using autocadd.....
                    thanks! but I bought this frame from an awesome fab shop.. LRS in Missouri.

                    they make frames speedway, and I got the prototype!

                    I modified their design for the rear suspension, to make it cheaper for me, and a hair higher.

                    here's the website for the fab shop with about a zillion pictures:

                    (I'm not digging the new coilover version, with a front 4 bar setup)

                    http://www.streetrodderstuff.com/ratrod.htm

                    heres my modified version:







                    Last edited by biGshiz79; 04-09-2011, 09:14 AM.
                    Bodyman, painter, frame guy.. basically I hit sh*t with hammers..

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