View Full Version : clear coat bare metal
10-05-2007, 12:16 PM
I have seen this done on a couple of cars.
Anyone know what to use to clear coat and how to prep bare metal to hold clear coat with no primer?
10-05-2007, 02:40 PM
umm i did my front bumper, only prep was wiping it with mineral spirits. and its rattle can clear to boot!!!
so far so good
10-05-2007, 05:32 PM
I think I will need something better than rattle can for the whole body
Going to look at it this week end but guy says its almost rust free and I would just hate to cover this look up
10-05-2007, 09:12 PM
I'd be cautious using mineral spirits to clean before rattle can if the base of the rattle can is acrylic or other synthetic. they're not compatible.
10-05-2007, 09:37 PM
You just need to wipe it down with a "metal prep" that is designed to be used to wipe down bare metal. Then squirt the clear. Most clears will have a glossy finish. You probably want a satin finish .... ?
10-07-2007, 12:46 AM
enamel works best but it will not last long , as soon as you get a chip it will peel off in sheets , clearcoat will not adhere to bare steel no matter how you prep it , I have tried them all from cheap to super expensive . if you want to keep it bare your best bet would be to keep it oiled
10-07-2007, 01:36 PM
ive heard that people have had problems with the clear turning alittle yellow without a color backing
10-07-2007, 10:14 PM
clear coat doesnt stick to bare metal very well it would work but as already stated as soon as you get a chip it will all start coming off.im not sure how shinney you want it to look but what i was gonna do when i got my rod was get all the deep scratches out with with 80grit on the d/a then move to 180grit and then finish sanding by going over it with 320grit for a WHILE till it starts looking shinny then polish it. i wanted that WW2 polished fighter plane look with some designs on it.
10-08-2007, 08:47 PM
so,.........what are your plans to keep it raw bandit?
10-09-2007, 09:23 PM
do you mean keeping it from rusting caddy? i was gonna try wax see how that would work, if not then wipe it down with wd40.
10-09-2007, 09:54 PM
There are a couple of products I would test and then use for what you want. Years ago there was a product called XIM, it was an adhesion promoter that the Gas company and Phone company paint shops tipped me off about, it is clear and will make paint stick to anything, including a greasey surface, it worked on anything I used it on, if it's still available. Today I use a clear adhesion promoter for new sheet metal and plastic parts that have never been painted, it's clear also but doesn't work on anything but a dry clean surface, then paint can be applied. It's called bulldog and it comes in aerosol rattle cans, quarts, and gallons, no mixing, no hardener, drys quickly, no sanding between coats or topcoat, and it works. Been using Bulldog for about ten years, use it on new aluminum intack manifolds and valve covers with clear and no base color, for a buddy who puts together award winning hotrod engines here in Riverside. Best of Show on a Vette last year. I would spray a test panel, the clear I used was a cheap 75 buck a gallon PCL clear, you even get the quart of hardener for the 75 bucks, it mixes 4 to 1 with no reducer, and is user friendly, which means hard to run and easy to keep dry spots out of your pride and joy, but some guys can screw up any paint work, experience is the key, find a product you like, learn all the little tricks and stay with it.
10-16-2007, 07:53 AM
So Bulldog and clear work? :confused: I want the raw- naked look as well on my 46 Dodge- it's virtually rustfree. I plan on having the frame, drivetrain and body all scuffed and in the "Raw"
10-16-2007, 11:05 AM
just found a product made by por 15 , it is called glisten pc , claims to "clearcoat all bare metals" its a little pricey , but if it works as it claims it would be worth every penny
10-29-2007, 08:30 PM
there are clears for bare metal all are pricy the por 15 works pretty good
thay are advertised for clearing polished and machined wheels.I have used a product I sell in northstar on bare metal for the interior and i have not had any problems with it on the inside but the outside ? im not sure.
11-20-2007, 03:01 AM
isn't GIBBS supposed to be a primer as well
11-20-2007, 05:29 PM
I was at RRR in Vegas you can look it up on youtube and find this bare metal truck treated with a chemical called steel to copper or some such name available at most welding supply stores. Then he clear coated it. BAD ASS LOOK!!! I called my welder friend and he said its available in lots of finishes even a sweet dark blue........Look for "Rockabilly rod reunion" on youtube and the truck is in 1 of the videos.
11-20-2007, 07:23 PM
what is it, machining die?
11-21-2007, 01:24 PM
Call a local welder and ask about steel to copper and he should know something.
If he doesnt I'll give you my guys number here in Utah
11-21-2007, 02:11 PM
Here's a link for Gibbs:
I'm planning on using this, sounds like it's perfect for going with the barenaked look and if you want to paint later shouldn't be a problem.
11-21-2007, 04:00 PM
Wipe the body with wd-40 about once a week.;)
11-29-2007, 09:17 PM
D A It Once A Week
03-15-2008, 08:47 AM
I've had good luck on interior and engine parts with Eastwoods Nyalic Clear Coat Barrier.
03-15-2008, 10:00 AM
i have always wondered about clearing over bare metal but havent tried it yet. i spray sikkens and lessonal at work and we have a clear sealer, clear base for layering over airbrush work and clear over that . i was going to try that and see how it worked.... any ideas if it would? kinda pricy to just try
03-15-2008, 04:38 PM
I've seen a rod done in clear powder coat. Sticks good and is super durable. If you have a naked frame or body before assembly, this is a good way to go. Contemplating it myself for my frame.
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